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I took an early hike this morning to Jack Bay and Issac Bay on St. Croix. I saw them from a mountain trail late yesterday and thought I would get a close-up look.
Holy cow! Jack Bay beach has almost blindingly white sand that is very fine, nearly powdery. (I've since read on the Internet that it's one of the most beautiful beaches in the USVI.) The beach is wide with some pink sand mixed in, too. The water close to shore is very still and so clear it almost doesn't seem to be there. The view up into the mountains is fabulous because it's all undeveloped. I only saw one piece of garbage by the beach-a crate. Apparently, most of the locals haven't found the place! You do have to walk a good 30 minutes or so along paths to get there. They are kept pretty clear of brush by the Nature Conservancy, which owns the area. It has put up a covered shelter with a picnic table that's concealed by a grove of sea grapes. My guess is that it gets used about once a week. The only fresh footprints I saw were my own.
There is a rocky isthmus to the east called Issac Point that is covered with beautiful cacti, succulents, and grasses. The best landscape designer in the world couldn't design a rock garden even approaching it. I climbed up the thing. Looking down to the sea, you can see an interesting algal (not coral) ridge. You can actually see pretty far down into it. I wish I had had binoculars!
To the east of the outcropping is Issac Bay. It has a small amount of garbage, and the Conservancy has part of the beach roped off because of endangered turtles, so this sort of spoils the atmosphere a little. Still, the beach is also very white and wide. Just turn your back to the garbage and rope and look out to sea.
Tourists, try to see this area, especially Jack Bay, when you're here. I've been living here over a month and knew about it before I moved here, but only managed to get to it today. It's on the southeast side of the island. You can climb down from a trail starting just before the Point Udall monument, or park your car at Cramer's Park, then start by foot up the dirt trail just to the east of the giant white telescope. The first way takes you past beaches. The second way takes you over a mountain ridge. Take plenty of water.
If you take the dirt trail by the telescope, you can also climb to the top of Sugarloaf Hill. At 672 feet, you get an excellent, unobstructed view of much of St. Croix. Warning: It is very windy at the top, so stay a few feet back from the edge.
The trails throughout this whole area are well marked with signs, and there are maps posted in a couple of places.
No wonder they call St. Croix the "best kept secret" of the USVI.
Ohioguy,
Thanks for all the information! We were on St. Croix this past spring and drove past the giant white telescope not realizing we were missing one of St. Croix's "secrets"--- the path to those beautiful beaches! Just another thing to put on our list of things to do for the next time we go back to St. Croix!
Keep writing about your adventures there---you have a great descriptive writing style. Having been there I can picture what you're talking about ---- alot of us are probably living vicariously through your fun times right now!
Years ago when I lived there as a teenager some friends took me to East end and I'm not sure now if it was Butlers Bay or what-- but it was a very secluded beach, just georgous. We walked up the hill just east of the beach then along a trail that led east right on the edge of the steep ridge for about 5 minutes, then the trail led straight down the cliff to the water's edge where there was this beautiful little cave filled with smooth small rocks. Right in front of the cave was a deep pool of water the size of a small swimming pool protected with coral walls-- had just a gentle splash of waves coming in. Fun experience to jump into the pool and climb in the cave! It might be fun to explore this area. (if you can find where I'm talking about! My memory's skaky on exactly how to get there, just remember being alittle scared walking along the ridge and how amazing it was to discover the hidden pool and cave when we got there. Someone else may know where I'm talking about)
Also, have you walked around the old Grapetree Bay Hotel? The ruins of it really-- after the hurricane. It's interesting to see the extent of the damage that was done and how it's just been left there all these years. Such a shame!
Keep us all informed on your explorations and fun times on the island!
Paula
Just to let you know, Butler's Bay is on the west end north of Fredericksted.
I'm not sure what cave and pool you're talking about, but I'll find them eventually!
Yes, I've seen the Grapetree Hotel ruins from the parking lot. I was a bit hesitant to walk around alone in there.
I walked around in the ruins of the old Grapetree - it must have been a very nice place before Hugo. It really is amazing that everything was just left there. As a souvenir my sister took a beat up metal ashtray and I took a magazine (still readable) from March 1989 (Hugo was September 1989). My first trip to St. Croix, incidentally, was in February 1989.
I went into the ruins of the Grapetree hotel late yesterday and found a Giddeon Bible and a stack of blank customer bills on the first floor. I, too, picked up a souvenir from the stack. It says "Grapetree Bay Resort Hotel Water Sports No. 4095" at the top. I wonder if anyone held that Bible when Hugo hit the place.
The hotel looks like it was built around 1970-funky international architecture. The ceiling is caving in with wires hanging down everywhere and all the windows are shattered. The whole place has a slight smell of rotting wood. You stand in that dilapidated, silent building and then look out on the beautiful waves rolling in. The contrast is rather jarring.
In one spot a Coca-Cola vending machine is on a 45 degree angle against a wall. Toward the back of the first floor there are two matresses in what's left of a room. Somebody's been living there. Back in that area, a bat started suddenly flying around my head. Scared the bejesus out of me.
Downstairs there's what's left of a circular bar on a deck. You wonder who went there, what they talked about, if they're still alive, where they've moved on to. The round roof over the bar is still intact. The oak ceiling above is in perfect condition. Then you look around, and there are dirty upholstered chairs and rusted ice machines and thousands of pieces of broken glass down in the pool and everywhere else. It's quite a study in contrasts.
I read that the hotel had to constantly bring in truckloads of sand to replenish the beach due to the currents. They built these ugly, low concrete retaining walls that jut out into the sea to help stop the process. Now the beach is back to its original state: Gravel.
The whole experience made me appreciate life more. You can have so much today and lose it all tomorrow.
My husband and I (and my 70+) parents also explored the Grapetree Hotel ruins when we were there on vacation this last spring. We remembered the hotel well from it's days before Hugo. Such a beautiful place, great beach. I read your post ,Joanne, back in the early spring about how you could explore the ruins and knew we had to see what was left. Ohioguy, I totally could picture what you were describing! I also picked up that Gideons Bible left on the little alcove on the main floor. I took some pretty little shells that had washed up and landed by the Bible. Also some kind of round pod (seeds?) that were scattered on the floor about the size of a ping pong ball. I was surprised customs didn't take them! I've thought about planting them here in Texas and see what comes up---- hopefully not something like Little Shop of Horrors! Ohioguy, did you notice all the bats roosting or nesting in the top of that circular bar?! I was standing under it with my Mom talking loudly and my Dad (grinning) pointed upward. My mother and I were skidding across glass as fast as we could go! You need safe shoes to walk around there don't you--- I had on flip flops and they were full of tiny pieces of glass by the time we left. It was spooky walking down that hall and seeing the state of the rooms--- just scraps of carpet left, maybe a mattress...almost total destruction. The elevator looked like it had burned. I guess people dug the debris out of that stairwell--- although it looked like the original debris from back then all tumbled in there! My dad just couldn't believe it. I took 3 pieces of that pretty turquoise tile that was scattered around. I wish I'd taken more to make into some project here, now. I also took an old room service ticket from 1989 that was scattered with others all around the floor. I wonder if anyone was in the hotel when Hugo hit. This past spring we talked to alot of people who survived Hugo in their homes, and their stories were amazing! Didn't the Grapetree have a great pool? What a waste.
I love reading your reports, were you by chance at Point Udall the 1st. week of July, driving a truck? We asked someone to take our picture there and was just wondering if perhaps it was you. How long have you been there, and what part of Ohio are you from?
Just curious, I was born in Ohio and have family that still lives there.
Yes, I remember you and your other half. I remember you saying you're from Cleveland (what part of town?) and now in, I believe, North Carolina. I grew up in Massillon and lived in Cleveland across the street from the West Side Market for one and a half years (by the Great Lakes Brewery restaurant and Market Square) and then lived in Bedford for a year and a half. I've been on St. Croix since early June.
My husband and I are currently in STX and went to see the former Grapetree Bay Hotel ruins again yesterday. We go each year, hoping for something good to have happened to it - such as a sizeable money infusion from a development company to restore it to its former self and resurrect that lovely pool! The For Sale sign is gone and there are now some Do Not Enter signs/tape trying to block people from entry. While there doesn't seem to be any action in terms of clean up wprk, something seems to be happening. I saw on another message board that a company based out of Atlanta had purchased the place. Not sure - does anyone know of this and whether it's true?
STX is always our favorite spot for endless beauty and relaxation.
My husband and I stayed in the Grapetree Bay hotel for a week back in 1987 and it was a cool place. We havent been back to STX since but we have a trip planned for this June. All of the descriptions you folks gave of the hotel bring back so many memories. I have some pictures of the place somewhere. We definitely have it on our list of things to do while we are there. What is the best way to get there; drive up to the front or can you walk from the Divi? It's been alot of years and I cant remember how far the Divi is from the "ruins" plus someone mentioned the beach eroding. I do remember the beach not being so great and the sand having to be brought in explains it. Maybe that's why no one has done anything with the hotel. Thanks for the memories!!
You will need to drive if you go by road. I don't think you could get there along the beach either, but I have never tried.
When I was there in March 05 you can park next to the hotel and pick your way through the ruins.
Jim
Excellent. That is what we'll do. I wonder if we'll be able to find our old room. It was a little bungalow on the beach. Thank you very much!!
These places sound wonderful. Since you seem to be doing a lot of exploring any suggestions for beaches, other activities for first time visitors. coming in april with two teens, staying at a villa in Carlton Beach...welcome any and all suggestions to make this a special vacation...they're getting ready to leave the nest and I want this trip to be one we'll always remember
