My thanks to all who answered questions for me and all the information I gleaned from reading this and other forums. This trip report contains the sort of information I most appreciated and feel is most helpful to others.
My husband and I are in our early 50's, and are very youthful and adventurous. What we look for in beach (and most) vacations is peacefulness and an opportunity to relax and get our priorities in order - about living versus working, and about our relationship with each other and ourselves. We don't need "fancy" accomodations, dining, or activites - but do want to be comfortable. We like beaches for snorkeling, reading, playing in the waves, and just "being". We like to hike. We like to try local food. We cook in our aparments generally for about 50% of the dinner and lunches, and 90% of breakfasts. We take some food with us, and actually wish we had taken more, because then we wouldn't have to spend time shopping, although that is also fun...). We chose the Virgin Islands because of the above and because of the easy access to other islands by ferries (reminded us of the Greek Islands - our 1st trip together).
I suggest that people strongly look at what they really want out of a vacation when planning their trips and then do research accordingly.
SOOOO---- We stayed our first 3 days at Secret Harbor Resort in St. Thomas. A great internet price ($99/night for oceanview suite - which they generously upgraded to an oceanfront suite on the second floor). It was really a "class act". Air conditioned, which I do recommend for this time of year - it would be very uncomfortable unless you are in a very breezy location. The staff is very good (well, not the waiters, they were either a little snotty or a liitle flaky - but not offensively so....). After the long flight and late arrival, I had the best massage of my life the first morning by their in-house therapist, Heidi (very reasonable, I think $30) who was very informative and as well as being excellent). We ate 1 dinner, 1 breakfast, and 1 lunch (coupon) at the Blue Moon Cafe at the resort, which I think was somewhat overpriced, but the food was pretty good (not great). Beach at Secret Harbor is very good, sandy, good snorkeling, QUIET and beautiful. The view was not fantastic if you would like the classic view of islands in the distance and vastness of ocean, but it was a beautiful location. Secret Harbor is not condusive for using the public transportation (at least not in the heat of the summer). You have to walk about 15-20 minutes to get to the road where the safari busses travel. If you don't care about seeing the rest of the island, no problem, but we wanted to see what we could. We rented a car for one day with Tri-Island - right across from the Red Hook ferry dock, same prices as most of the other places. They were very nice, and picked us up, and we dropped the car off on our way to St. John. In one day we visited Coki - good snorkeling as mentioned by others) and then went to Magens later in the day (didn't pay as it was late) very beautiful and peaceful) and basically explored. We ate lunch at Molly Malones in Red Hook (Coupon and pretty good - very nice waiter) and dinner at Bonnies by the Sea Coupon, also pretty good). GREAT TIP - the Rotary Club coupon book. GET IT! My huband walked to THe Color of Joy shop by the St. Thomas Yacht Club around Cowpeet Bay - southeast corner of the island). we SAVED so much money by using the 2 for 1 lunch and dinner offers in St. Thomas and St. John. I will give my opinions on the restaurants, but still - you can't beat the price.
After we spent a week on St. John and then a week on Tortola (BVI), - will write about that tomorrow - we returned to St. Thomas for our last day and night before an 11:30 flight home. Ferried from West End, Tortola to Charlotte Amalie ($22). We stored our bags at the ferrydock (free) and walked to he town/shopping area. Wouldn't recommend it unless you are a major shopper and that is your vacation thing. Frankly, the prices are better on Home Shopping channels and end of season sales at department stores - at least in our priceranges. We ate lunch at Cafe Amici - sandwich large enough for us to share - about $10. walked back to dock and got cab to hotel ($14). We stayed at the Best Western Carib Beach by the Airport. Good interent price ($80), including nice complimentary continental breakfast. All waterfront. They are renovating and the place smelled like wet paint. Nice staff. room very small. Private balcony. We were on 1st floor - Get a room on second fllor - you really can't see the water from the first floor). Manmade beach - small kinda-sandy area with no real beach. Chaise lounges in sand with tiki huts and nice pool. Dinner at Island Beachcomber (coupon), a 10 minutes walk down beach to a much better beach (and next to Best Western Ermerald Beach). ISland Beachcomber had nice ground, but rooms are not oceanfront (except for a few). The clientelle left MUCH to be desired. As there wasn't much business dinner was served in the outdoor bar area . Lovely, but understaffed. one bartender/waiter and one cook. Food decididly mediocre and overpriced. Loud Obnoxious Belligerent Drunkd. I mean, really out of it - biker chick type foul-mouthed woman with a couple of blow-hard type loud male drunks. I felt sorry for the bartender - there were several near eruptions! It was entertaining - but not peaceful!!!
Cab to airport was $10. Got there 90 minutes before flight - didn't need to be there more than 30 minutes early - but then this is LOW season. Something interesting - you check in with your bags, and then pick up your bags and go through customs, and then give your bags back to go onto the plane.
TO Be continued after I've had some rest.