First a note of explanation. Many of you will see in the subject line “trip report part 8" and rightfully say “huh?” Well I began the trip reports back in August and since September have had computer problems that are too lengthy to go into here. But since I like to finish what I start...here it is! For those who care trip reports parts 1 through 7 they have long since sailed over the archive horizon, but can be found on 8/3, 8/4, 8/6, 8/10, 8/15, 8/24, and 8/31. Be forewarned though if steroids and trip reports can be mixed...I should be investigated!

I’ll get to the Wayward Sailor in a minute but there was a day between the last trip report and our daysail. This was Tuesday of our second week leaving us a balance of 4 full days before our departure. The weather was “changing” so we decided on a low key day of cruisin’ Cruz Bay. There wasn’t a lot of stuff we wanted to buy, the kids still hadn’t spent their $100 yet (amazing!) Although Hippolittle was eying diving accessories now that he had three dives under his (weight) belt! STJ shopping devolves around six basic areas. Wharfside, Mongoose Junction, the Lumber Yard, and to a lesser degree, the Marketplace. There are also a few shops in the Coral Bay area. Mongoose and Wharfside pretty much dominate the shopping scene and Caneel’s gift shop does have some unique things and their dive shack can’t really compete with the place in Wharfside. This is of course opinion.

One of the more interesting shopping destinations is St. John Spice in Wharfside, which as the name implies is mostly about spices, although their hot sauce selection, and teas are not to be underestimated. One item of note and worth a visit (just for this) is the Cruz Bay Grill Rub! Rub it on everything! I ain’t kidding! Anything you can grill or broil, all the way down to hot dogs. Mix it with olive oil and put it on everything. Their hot sauce “tasting bar” will introduce you to gastronomical hell you won’t soon forget!

There are neat clothing shops at both Mongoose, Wharfside and Caneel. And a few places worth visiting as I have mentioned at Lumber Yard and the Market Place.

Tonight is Ten Tables night (see Trip Report Part 1) Again the Lamb here is the best I have ever had. This past Saturday I went with wife and friends to the best restaurant in my home town. (Pop. 600K) I had the lamb. On a scale of 1-10 Ten Tables s a twelve...local best 4.5!

Back to the villa and my cigar is joined by a appertif I have never heard of, and whose name I can’t remember, tasted bit like plums? (Check your cabinets upon arrival!) We see lightning off to the east. About the time I crawl into bed (I’m the last one) The heavens unleash one of the most incredible thunderstorms I have ever seen! (It’s just different on an island!) I jump up and open all the curtains. (I LOVE Thunderstorms!!!) The next morning I ast Hippolittle and Hippolita were they scared last night? Hippolita replies “I wasn’t until Mom opened the door to check on us, with all the lightning lighting her from behind!” Hippolittle added “that scared the crap out of me!”

We are scheduled to meet Captain Phil Chalker of the Wayward Sailor, at a park bench in Cruz Bay at 9:00 AM for our day sail the following morning. I originally was going to pick a half day sail, and he persuaded me by e-mail to go for the full day. Great decision! To call this a day sail is somewhat of a misstatement. It is more like a double fantastic snorkeling trip where you will meet someone you won’t soon forget. Your kids will remember it forever. (At least mine will!) We arrive and he’s waiting at the pre-arranged location. There is another couple we are waiting for. In the meantime Hippolotta is discussing the flora and fauna of the island with him, and mentions that we have been feeding the Bananaquits (Sugar birds) a water/sugar solution, as well as offering table scraps to the pearly eyed thrashers. To which he offers a pregnant pause, before replying “well....it’s only human nature....to feed the animals....which is why every bird on this island is....DIABETIC!!!!” Horrified look crosses over Hippolotta’s face until he cracks a smile to indicate he’s kidding. But later tells a personal tale of where human intervention in nature’s food chain can have unpleasant results. (More on this later. We wait for another couple, who arrive shortly, and we walk to the beach in front of the beach bar, where we remove our footwear, rinse our feet (sand is the enemy to Captain Phil) and get in his dinghy and head out to his sailboat “the wayward sailor”. As soon as we are under way Phil begins telling us tales of the sea. (This is one of the reasons to sail with him.)

Phil’s boat is 40 years old, and he tells us if he became a billionaire tomorrow, he would keep this boat. (I believe him.) Although it shows it’s age you can tell how well it has been kept by someone who considers it his home. (It is, but he is building a house on Lovongo Cay) When we arrive at the boat, we are greeted by his first mate Tarn, (also a waitress at Tapas) and Captain Phil give us an orientation that the airlines would envy. We soon set sail out of Cruz Bay and head toward the islands off the south side of STJ. If you look south from the south side of the island as in this picture....

the island in the distance in the far left is French Cap, going to the right is Dog Island followed by Little St. James, and Great St. James. (There is also a group of rocks not pictured to the left, known as Dog Rocks. Phil asks each of us what we do while not on vacation. When he gets to me and I mumble something about managing equity portfolios, he replies “Oh like our friend Mr. Epstein?” Me: “huh?” I tell him I have never heard of him. It turns out that a Mr. Jeffery Epstein has purchased Little St. James, and is currently lobbying the USVI Government to re-name the island St. Jeff! (Money doesn’t equal class as this and the goings on in Maho demonstrate) I do a little research on Epstein when I get back and learn he prefers to be an “International Man of Mystery” So with that in mind...let me share!

http://newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/news/people/n_7912/

And oh, by the way...note the photo credit! Captain Phil, as is the case with other long time STJ residents, are not really happy with some goings-on on the island.
Our first snorkel stop is between Little and Great St. James. Folks this was incredible! Tons of Angel Fish, incredible sponges and corals. This proves yet again if you can get to a spot that few people go you will see a great deal more. Phil is as enthusiastic snorkeling as someone going for the first time. This was a long snorkel but noone got tired.

When we get to the boat, Tarn has prepared an excellent lunch, Crab (artificial but just as good) salad sandwiches, on toasted pumpernickel, and red cabbage and raisin salad and homemade brownies. As we have lunch Phil tells us of the interactions of man and nature under the sea, most of which aren’t happy stories, (but some are!) He doesn’t do this to make us feel bad as humans, but perhaps a little more careful, when we visit their world. He mentions a green Moray eel he befriended and fed one time. It lost it’s fear of divers and was killed by a spear fisherman. He feels bad about this to this day.

Our next snorkel is at a group of rocks known as the “Stragglers” which is behind Great St. James. This was a little more technical(currents) but was even better than the first snorkel. There were several “swim throughs” which Hippolittle thought was very cool. Absolutely tons of fish! After this dive, and a re-visit to Phil’s famous brownies, he shares his photo album and tells us of his favorite u/w friend, the octopus. This alone is almost worth the prices of admission. Shortly after this we sail back into Cruz Bay, ending a day that is way too short! Tonight we had dinner at Caneel’s Equator. A sentimental journey for all of us.

Why professional photographers everywhere have nothing to fear from the wait staff at Caneel’s Equator Restaurant!

The next morning we are trying to decide between Waterlemon and Maho. We finally decide to do Maho today, and reserve a dinghy and go to Waterlemon tomorrow by sea.

Maho is probably my favorite beach. Long, with lots of shade, great snorkeling in shallow water, and surprisingly few people given it’s closeness to the North Shore Road. We had brought a picnic lunch from Deli Grotto, and just had a great day limin’.

From under the shade tree at Maho

Hippolittle at Maho

This night we had dinner at the Stone Terrace. As I have mentioned in an earlier trip report this restaurant has always been one of my favorites. However there was a new executive chef, which always raises the “risk” factor. I am pleased to report that the meal was excellent, but the service wasn’t up to par. I don’t even think our waiter was really a waiter. Economically all businesses in the island have to be very cost conscious, and having excess staff is not really an option. If someone calls in sick or doesn’t show, it can alter the experience dramatically. This being said I would give the Stone Terrace the benefit of the doubt. (I did under-tip though)

The next day we picked up sandwiches at the Simple Feast and headed into town to pick up our dinghy at Noah’s Little Arks. We rented for the half day (which is sufficient) Noah’s Little Arks is located on the beach, in front of the Beach Bar. There are two sizes of dinghy. Smaller with a 15 HP engine and larger with a 30 HP engine. We chose the smaller, next time I will choose the larger! $20 more for the half day but I believe it will be money well spent. There is a 12-15 minute video that you are required to watch (and should) and then after a brief orientation with the owner/operator, you are on your way. They don’t want you to go on the south side of the island, in fact the video suggests that you go all the way to Waterlemon and then work your way back. This is a good suggestion. This way you are going with the current and the wind on your way in.

As we approach the Cay at Waterlemon it is a bit confusing finding the dinghy tie up. (HINT: as you approach the cay bear right. This means putting the cay off of your port bow, for you nautical types.) Naturally I went in the wrong way (through the swim area! A “friend” of the National Park was quick to hop in a dinghy to come tell me (in the nicest possible terms) what an idiot I was! She really was nice and chatted with us a while and told up which way the current was running so we could snorkel with it. Hippolittle and I jumped in, while Hippolotta, and Hippolita stayed behind. (Bad decision as it started to rain!) Upon entering the water you are immediately struck by the number and size of the starfish.
As we swim around the Cay (the back or seaward side is where the action is) the number and size of the fish grow dramatically! If you are into snorkeling and you go to STJ, you just have to go to Waterlemon! By the time we get back to the dinghy the girls have gotten in the water. As we prepare to leave we come to realize that getting into a dinghy in water where you can’t reach the bottom with your feet to push off, can be problematic. (HINT: go to the stern and there are planing fins on the engine just above the prop you can use to step on to pull yourself up. Obviously the engine is OFF at this time.)

We go back around Mary Point and stop to have lunch at Francis Bay beach. There are picnic tables there. Then staying fairly close to shore we scout out Little Maho, Big Maho, Cinnamon, Jumbie, Trunk Hawksnest, all the Caneel beaches, Honeymoon, Solomon. Go slow by Peter Bay and gawk at the McMansions. If you have time stop at any of these beaches.

McMansion at Peter Bay

When we get back to the Beach Bar, the Friday night Happy Hour is in full swing. We run into John from 6-Paq Scuba who is still raving about Hippolittle’s diving prowess! We stop by the Simple Feast where our friend has saved us a nice piece of incredibly fresh Yellowfin Tuna. He adds some fresh ginger, soy sauce, and grilled with Cruz Bay grill rub, and it was the second best meal I prepared while I was down there.

Tomorrow is our departure day so this will be the next to last trip report. So next will be the Finale with Villa review.