To begin with I can’t start this trip report without thanking everyone on this board. This was my 13th visit to STJ and the first trip after discovering this (and other) message board(s). I think I learned more here than in all 13 previous trips. So thank you one and all! After reading so many great trip reports I’ll try to live up to the standards left by others.

Although I will continue to post by “Wes” in the tradition of others, (Flip Flop, FlaGeorge, etc) s I am going to assume a new identity, or nom de guerre, if you will, for the purpose of the trip report. The reason for this will be apparant shortly. That said, although I will speak of myself usually in the first person, for the time being I shall be known as Hippolyte, the missus will be known as Hippolotta, 16 year old daughter shall be referred to as Hippolita, and 11 year old son wil be Hippolittle! I wish I had been creative enough to think of this when I first logged on to this board, but although I am always “outing” myself by including my last name, this may afford them a bit of privacy.

We returned from STJ on the 23rd, after two wonderful weeks. All of my previous trips I have stayed at Caneel Bay. As any of you who have read my posts, you know I have a very high regard for Caneel. The last time we were there Noma at the front desk referred to me not as guest but rather “family”. We took our kids there two years ago, they are trying to attract families and therefore have a Family Plan, where you buy one room at regular seasonal rates and you get an adjacent room at half price. We had a terrific time but the kids have rather unsophisticated palates and food costs a lot. So after much research we decided on a villa. Much better idea.!

This first installment I wanted to give an overview, and mention some special people, places and activities. Our villa was fabulous! After I get my deposit down for next year I will reveal it’s name and location. (Hopefully in the last trip report!) I highly recommend using an on-island villa rental agency, ours was terrific. After going nearly blind looking at villas on the internet, I called our villa agency and said “this is what I’m looking for...” After reeling off about 10 things, she said “oh you want...” The single solitary problem we had was after a brief thunderstorm we turned on the faucet and nothing happened. It was Sunday afternoon and there was a laminated card on the telephone cord and a weekend number was listed. I called, a little apologetically, and they said “that’s what were here for”. And within 10 minutes Adrian was there and was priming the water pump and switched the cistern.

People:

If you are interested in scuba diving you need to get to know Colete Diede of 6 Paq Scuba. She is a terrific instructor, has a great boat, (fast and will get you to more places), she has a great captian in John, and takes out no more than 6. She is great with kids.

Phil Chalker of the Waward Sailor. You will meet a great many people over a lifetime. Some will be memorable. Cap’n Phil is one of them. We chose him for our daysail and it was terrific. He is a marine naturalist, and ordained minister, (performs many weddings). His boat is his home. It will turn 40 years old this month. He says if he got a billion dollars tomorrow he’d keep the same boat. I believe him. Yes, even though you are paying him, he is inviting you into his living room, indeed his life! You get two increadible guided snorkling trips and a much better than average lunch. His favorite underwater citizen is the octopus, and his pictures and knowledge of them is fabulous!

The National Park Service employees, especially Pat Dinesi. These folks that give the NPS guided Reef Bay Trail hike will make you feel good about your tax dollars. These folks really. Really know their stuff. More on this later.

Mooie Morehead. I don’t know this man, or even if he is still alive, but there ought to be a statue to him somewhere on STJ. Laurence Rockefeller, gets a lot of great press about STJ, but his initial plans for STJ was to move ALL of the locals to Fish Bay which is probably the buggiest place on STJ. The US Senate actually voted to allow him to do this in 1956. Mooie Morehead, a St. Johnian who was in the service in Washington DC heard about it and although I don’t know much of the details, stopped him single handedly. His family still lives on Morehead (or Mooie) Point, which is the next point westward from Gallows. Development is very much a double edged sword so to speak. Good in that it gives us wonderful places to vacation. Bad in that it creates burdens for the locals that call STJ home. Locals don’t get any break on property taxes and the civic infrastructure isn’t really keeping pace with development.

Places:

The Starfish Market, is the most modern super market on the island, and I found the best selection of produce there. I have heard they are somewhat opportunistic in pricing. I bought shrimp there a couple of times and I would ask the guy “when did these come in?” and he replied “today”. (True) I kept asking while we were there and on about the fifth inquiry he replied “tomorrow”.

The Simple Feast is simply wonderful! Fresh pre-prepared foods. Occaisionally really fresh fish. On more than several mornings I would go get their version of a sausage McMuffin (sausage, egg, and cheese on an english muffin w/ mayo) Hippolotta and I would share it. If you want a really great tip. The first day of your vacation, stop by, introduce yourself and leave a card and your villa phone number, and write “fresh fish” on it. They are sort of a gourmet market and I though their prices were reasonable, by island standards. The sandwich I describe above was $4.50, but way better than Mickey D’s. They also make great sandwiches to take to the beach. One day Bobby, (young guy) was outside with a beef brisket on the grill. Unfortunately we had sandwiches to go but he gave me a sample with his special sauce. Increadible! Some guys from Texas said “you don’t need any sauce on that” Bobby said “if you want to get dronk you do!”
I learned that all the edible fish move down to STX in mid-June and don’t return until mid September. The fishing charters will take your money and they will take you out, but you won’t catch much unless you go way south. The fish they get comes from bartering with the guys that go down there.

Pine Peace market is just past the Domino Gas station on the way out to the Westin. It is a little third worldly but you won’t find anybody that works to please you more. There prices ar generally cheaper than Starfish.

Restaurants:

Tage! I have to travel a bit in my work and one of the pluses, is expense account dining. There are great restuarants all over and then there are really memorable ones! The best meal I have ever had was at Babbo in New York City. Tage reminded me of Babbo. I had a tomato/chizo soup that was simply indescribable! I also had their “seafood sampler appetizer, which included shrimp, scallops lobster medallions in incredible sauces! My kids are getting a little more adventerous. Hippolita had a warm spinich salad, Hippolittle had lobster medallions (in sauce made in heaven) and Hippolotta had a crusted Mahi. Bread pudding was too much and shared!

Ten Tables! On a scale of one to ten...it’s an eleven or twelve. The waitress told us the specials and the mentioned that lamb was their “signature dish” Well “sign up” I did!! Unbelievable!! Without question the best I have ever had! I can’t remember what everybody else had because I was so absorbed with my meal. Leaving I went over to the window to the kitchen and shook Scott’s hand. When you go...get the lamb! Did I mention it’s their signature dish?

Rhumb Lines! What an interesting place. Pan Aisian and spicy. The have a light tapas-like menu on the back of the menu, as well as an extensive full menu. There are swings at the bar. Interesting courtyard seating. Very very good! Not as spectacular as the first two, but very good never the less.

Stone Terrace The chef that made their white bean soup (best bowl of soup I have ever had!) has left the island, which depressed me. I did meet their new chef, and we decided to give it a try, as it is one of our favorites. The food was incredible, unfortunately the service was abyssmal. I never under-tip but did this night. I hoe this was just a bad night for our waiter, because the food deserves better.

Lime Inn This is one of our favorites for lunch. They have great grilled fish, prepared a variety of ways. We ate there twice.

Uncle Joe’s BBQ! I can’t believe I have been to the islands as many times as I have, and not found this treasure until now! (Thanks message board!) It is so right out in the open it’s easy to miss. In fact it gets a little confusing, as there is also a Joe’s diner. To get to Joe’s stand in front of Cap’s Place , and cross the street towards the water. You’re there! Absolutely the best value and some of the best food on the island.

Activities:

The Reef Bay Trail w/ the National Park Service. This is a great thing to do. $20 p/p. $5 for the taxi to the trailhead, $15 for the boatride bake. See above and more later.

Day Sail on the Wayward Sailor. If you are looking for a rum soaked play pirate adventure, this isn’t for you. Again above, and more later.
Other Honorable Mentions:

The I-Pod (w/ I trip) is the second greatest invention of all time. I made an island playlist before I left, of not just island songs but rather songs I would like to listen to in the islands. I got a lot of these from you (thanks Liamsaunt!) After dinner I would send the kids down to the apartment below the “great room” to watch whatever silliness they want to on TV, I’d tune the stereo to 87.9 turn on the I Pod and listened to my music on the stereo! I believe the greatest island song of all time (even though it doesn’t mention the islands once) is “If I had a Boat” by Lyle Lovett!

BTW, the greatest invention af all time is the Neat Sheet. Owning one is like being in a secret fraternity like skull & bones at Yale! People would walk by you on the beach, their mouth would form a sly smile, and they would quietly say “neat sheet?” Electricity and the light bulb are third and fourth.

I need some help from my fellow board members...I have a bunch of photos I would like to share in future trip reports. I would like to imbed them as I go along. I have uploaded them to Ofoto and Flickr. So someone please help.

Stay tuned more to come!