This is a trip report for St. Thomas and St. John. John(44), and Cathy(43) on an anniversary trip without children. It’s long, but I hope it brings you back to the place you love…
The planning that went into this vacation was intensive and extensive. Alright, I’m anal, but in a good way. I used every guidebook, website, review site, that I could find. I then figured out what I could afford, what we would most enjoy, and then planned. I thank you all for your help with my many silly questions. Once I got to STT and STJ, I realized just how ridiculous some of my questions were…. But, that having been said, I’m sure I’ll ask many more questions, and if you are a newbie, ask away. It’s important to feel well informed. It will also bring me back to my vacation to help answer yours.

I had a wonderful visit with John, my husband . We celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary. We did not take our children. The week before we left, the kids were at camp, and we missed them, and almost took them with us. The airfares from Philly were only $358.00 But when we picked them up from camp, they were exhausted and spent. We were glad we waited to see them before planning ahead. (They never knew we considered this.) Well, maybe if they read this…
We left from Philly on the USairways flight at 8:00AM. The lines to check in were looong. It was the holiday weekend, as well as the Live 8 concert. It moved along pretty well, but I’m glad we gave ourselves some extra time. We saw people running through the airport trying to get to their gates in time. We overheard many a airlines people saying that you need to get here early. If you are leaving on a holiday weekend, do as they say. It would be a bad beginning to miss your flight .We waited at the “Jet Bar”. I had a Redeye Appletini to get my nerves settled. I hoped to maybe sleep a bit on the flight. I haven’t flown since 9/11. I don‘t like flying anyway, and was scrutinizing everyone that was waiting for our flight. Everyone checked out okay, they all looked like real tourists. (Whatever that looks like.) It was a smooth flight and I didn’t sleep. Too excited. (Drove my husband crazy .)
I was glad I didn’t, because I would have missed the beauty of the bays and waterways flying in. The blues, turquoises and greens were amazing. I only see water at the Jersey shore, and Delaware beaches, and they ain’t blue…

We got out of the baggage claim area, after receiving our free rum punch, and had our first encounter with the Mafia, er, I mean organized crime, er, I mean the taxis. We waited for what seemed too long for the taxi guy to take us, only after all the taxi guys decided who was going to do the run, and make sure we were all crammed in with enough people to make it worth their while. What a racket. This was only the first time this occurred, but for us, it was still worth it for this first trip to be carted around.

We had heard it would be 88 degrees, and we thought, no big deal, it’s 90 at home. Well, the air felt hot like home, but let me tell you, the sun definitely felt stronger. Somehow different on the skin.Tropics here we are! Glad we brought lots o’tanning products. Or should I say sunburn avoiders. We saw many a persons in our travels that were painful to just look at. Ouch. Wear lots of sunscreen. The only day I had even a little burn was the day I wore 15 SPF. The rest of the time it was 45 SPF.

Onto the Marriott Morningstar. We had a beachfront room for 4 nights, all-inclusive. We arrived, but our room wasn’t ready, so we headed to Coco Joe’s for lunch. We wanted to taste test the rum for quality purposes. It passed with flying colors. At least they were flying after a few of the drinks! We came here often during our stay , and it has a great view overlooking the Caribbean. We had during various times during our stay, Cuban pressed pork sandwich, steak salad, grouper sandwich, burgers, a steak sandwich, definitely not a Philly one, but good nonetheless. Good food, prices are comparable for a resort hotel. We tallied our drinks, meals and ferry tickets (they were in the all-inclusive as well), and decided this was the way to go for us. It also included tips, and raft rentals at the beach.(so fun). You just write AI on your bill, and you’re set. It wouldn’t be worth it if you don’t drink, unless you’re a smoothie addict. It adds up quickly. We did the breakfast buffet every morning. It had more than enough choices, including omelets, French toast that was very good, fresh fruit, cheeses, meats, juices, bagels, Danish, potatoes, and peppered bacon a couple mornings, which was delish. We ate the first couple of night at Windows on the Harbor, since it was obviously included. We had surf and turf ( of course, what did you expect?), crab cakes, crème brulee, seafood chowder. So much for dieting. The food was good. We liked the view of Charlotte Amalie. Very nice and romantic. The waitstaff was excellent here, and treated us kindly. We always made sure to greet everyone we saw. It really worked for us. I had told a friend we met there about doing this. She hadn’t heard of that before, and she forgot once when she was shopping in town, and a woman scolded her, telling her before she asks a question, to greet her first. She didn’t forget again.

We did the shopping a couple of the mornings we were there. We needed some souvenirs for the kids. There were so many jewelers, it was overwhelming. They all want to befriend you, and lead you to their store. There were also 2 cruise ships in, and boy do they cater to an audience. Everything was hustling, bustling, OPEN for business. There were some jewelry deals, I got a hook bracelet, some liquor, and Tommy Hilfiger delights for my kiddos. We also got t-shirts, 5 for $10.00 at the flea market type shopping area, along with some ankle bracelets.

For the 4th of July, we decided to do the Limnos charter boat to see the fireworks on STJ. We stayed in the harbor to view, never going on land. It was $35. per person, along with open bar and some snacks. We really motored over there, the seas were choppy. The fireworks were brilliant, and we were very close. Some pieces fell onto our boat. We had a goosebump moment when one of the passengers started to sing the Star- Spangled Banner. Everyone, without being prompted, started to sing as well. A proud patriotic moment. A special feeling I won’t soon forget.

After the first 4 days of all-inclusive relaxing, we finally felt ready for adventure. We went to Magen’s Bay for the morning, and rented floats. The water here was very flat, just like a lake. Very clear, we saw fish swim by us as we floated. It wasn’t very crowded. We had a taxi ride from here with a very politically minded cabbie. I just agreed with whatever he said. He had no frills, no seatbelts, no windows in the back. A real jalopy. I was just praying he had brakes. He asked where we were from, and we told him Pennsylvania. He said he had been to Elizabethtown,PA. We asked him what would bring him to Elizabethtown? He replied, for my prosthetic arm. Great.

We went to Coki Beach for snorkeling.
I pictured Coki larger than it really is. A small beach area, with a few snack huts and a dive shop. When we first arrived, we were given a “tour” of the beach by a local? Actually, I’m not sure what he was. Was he looking for a tour guide handout? Was he truly caring about my welfare, and giving me advice? Did he work for one of the snack huts? I guess I’ll never know for sure…
Anyways, we looked around, and we asked for a locker to put our stuff. There was a tentlike structure with people sitting under it telling me they would put our stuff in a locker. Well… the “locker” was a Rubbermaid type box that didn’t lock, which they would load into their van, which was parked next to the tent…WHAT?… I don’t think so…. Call me a skeptic, but come on, do people really do this? Are they legit? We laughed and said no, and went to the beach to discuss what we were really going to do with our valuables while we were snorkeling. I have a watertight container for around my neck, and it worked like a charm, but it wasn’t big enough for all our stuff today. We saw another couple, and I guess they could tell by the looks on our faces, because they took us under their wings and clued us in to what they did. They told us that Maureen, with the dive shop, would look after our belongings for free, if we rented something from her. Well, we needed fins, so this worked great. She also cleaned our masks for us. Nice lady. We were off to the wild blue water. Beautiful snorkeling as soon as you hit the water. Maureen gave us Milkbones to feed the fish. They know this, and they came running. A feeding frenzy! A seagull, trying to get one of the fish , bopped down on my head. We enjoyed the snorkeling here. John saw a turtle. We also enjoyed “Komidy Korner” a beer selling “set-up.” $2.00 Presidentes, and my hubby was happy. This “set-up” was a guy selling beer, sodas, and mixed drinks out of the back of his parked pick-up truck. You gotta love that. What a beach. What a bar. We’ll be back.
After Coki was another taxi to the Sapphire Beach Resort for our get together with Vinow friends. We met at the Azure Restaurant. We got there a bit early to unwind from our busy day. Our hostess, Donna, was great. She set up the gathering at the restaurant where she works. This was a perfect spot. One, by one, everyone arrived, and we had drinks, conversation, and dinner. There were a good many of us, and we sat at a couple long tables. What a nice bunch of people there are here on these boards! My hubby still talks about the red snapper I had (that he ate most of), very delish. Thanks to everyone that showed up-all ages, all walks of life, experiences. It was fun evening.
We got back to the Marriott, and had to get our bags, and check-in again. We stayed at the Morningstar for just the first 4 nights, now we were staying at the Frenchman’s Reef portion of the hotel for the next 2 nights. When we got in, we were told that they gave our room away. What!! I had gone early this morning to tell them we might be back later in the evening, but we would indeed be back for a late check-in. She smiled and told us we were upgraded to the Governor’s Suite. Well, I was of course happy with that, and my dear husband told her he wanted to give her a hug. He couldn’t stop thanking her, and I told her I’d get him out of there. So much for playing it cool. Anyone in the lobby was knowing what SUITE we were going to…

It was nice, with a spiral staircase, Jacuzzi tub, loft bedroom, and another powder room downstairs. We were very happy with the upgrade.

Friday was our last day to be with friends we had made on this trip at the hotel. We played bingo (for drink coupons), and I finally won, sunbathed, and watched the iguanas one last time. There was one old one that had 2 tails. I wouldn’t mess with him, we called him grumpy granddaddy. He looked mean and old. They feed them to keep them away from the pool and restaurant areas, but they climbed the wall to the Sunset Grill a couple times while we were there.
We had dinner at Havana Blue our last night at Marriott. It is located at the Morningstar area of the hotel, but it’s privately owned. Dinner was delicious, and pricy. Nice romantic décor, and innovative dishes. Good service, too.

Next morning, we checked out early, and took a taxi to the Red Hook ferry. It was pretty full, since a group of students were taking a trip to STJ, and also a group of people were going to a funeral. Since this was right after the London bombings, they asked for photo I.D. (They said upgraded security was taking place). This caused a lot of panic for some passengers that forgot their I.D. Personally, I think you should have identification with you at all times anyway. They were sent away. One couple quickly drove back to Sapphire, and managed to still get back in time for the ferry. Gotta love “island time”. Actually, the couple that drove back, we had met at Coki when we went on Thursday. I heard he had a British accent, and I went up to him to tell him I felt bad for his country. His wife was on the cell phone, and had finally just heard that all their relatives were accounted for and ok. We saved them a seat, and we were off to STJ! Finally.After all the talk online. And what a sight it was!! A sunny happy day. (except for the funeral people on the ferry).

We got the obligatory picture under the St. John sign, and we waited for the Gallows Point taxi. We stayed there for our next 2 nights. (Wished it was more…)…

We saw the funeral, and they processed through the town. Everyone had on either white or black, no other colors. Some had rosette type ribbons. The cemetery was different than home, they lay the caskets above ground in concrete vaults. On top of the caskets were metal rebar rod type protrusions in the corners, so that another casket could be fitted on top of that one the next time someone in their family dies. I don’t know how many they fill upwards, I only saw 2 on top of each other. They had artificial flower arrangements on top of those, and one even had a fan that spun around from the wind.

We made our way to the Beach Bar for what would be my first taste of a Lime and Coconut drink. Oh my heavens. What a great concoction. I luckily had printed out the recipe before I went, so I will definitely be trying this at home.

Our room wasn’t ready yet, so we explored the town. We made our way around, it was nice to be able to walk around without a taxi. We were hungry for lunch, so we went looking for Uncle Joe’s BBQ. We got the rib and chicken combo, along with rice and cole slaw for $8.95. A truly delicious meal at a great price. It doesn’t look like much of a place, and we wouldn’t have stopped except for all the great advice we’ve gotten from this board. Thanks! We owe you one. Maybe two, actually, for sending a report this long…
We walked through town, shopping and buying various gifts. Many nice shops, including Wharf side and Mongoose Junction. Cruz Bay is a beautiful, quaint town.

Our room was ready when we got back to Gallows, and for some reason, we had reserved a harbor upper, but were given an ocean upper. Yes! The upgrade Gods were busy once again. Our room 7C, was Caribbean themed with decorative art throughout. A nice island feel. We got our snorkeling gear on, and went down to some of the best snorkeling we had tried. A nice little pool, lots of chairs around pool and ocean beach deck. We are settled in once again folks. I could get used to this, the only worries being where to eat? Where to drink? Do I have enough sunscreen on?

Yikes, by the way, it’s now happy hour, and we are late for Woody’s. It’s now 4:00, and we’ve missed an hour . We almost walked on, Woody’s was crowded, spilling out into the street, and VERY LOUD. Okay, well, I heard it was good, so let’s look for a spot. There, we found 2 spots open at a table. A lime & coconut, and a rum and coke and we’re in business. We start to loosen up, and 2 spots open up at the bar. We switched to the bar, and we met a barmaid that likes the Philadelphia Eagles!! My husband just is in Eagles green glory. (The rum didn’t hurt.) See you next year Johnna! Anyways, we were enjoying only a scenario you would have at Woody’s - Hee Haw on T.V., and listening to Rawhide on the CD player. It does not get any better than this… Okay, I might have said that before, but this time I mean it. We had 2 orders of the best shark bites we’ve ever tried.Well, we haven’t had them before, but they are soooo gooood. This was our dinner for tonight, pretty filling.We still talk about duplicating the recipe.We got 2 t-shirts, and away we go.

We found a taxi to take us to the Westin, we heard it is a nice spot for kids. We walked around the compound and explored the restaurants. Our kids would love the trampoline, and rock climbing wall in the bay. We might consider this resort if we have them next time.
We got back to Gallows, and listened to Jimmy Buffett on the CD player while enjoying a lovely view of St. Thomas on the balcony. Did I say I’m enjoying this trip?
We woke up to seagulls on the roof, an interesting sight. We went to Chilly Billy’s for breakfast and had crab eggs benedict, and a breakfast burrito. Yum.
We did the same the next morning we liked it so much, except I had the strawberry crepes, and hubby had the early bird special. Funny, the early bird special is up to 10:30AM. Works for me. A good breakfast with an interesting view of a half-built building across the street. A guy sitting next to me said it looked the same for the last 5 years. Island time.

It’s now Sunday, our next to last day on the USVI, and we’re cramming in everything. I wished I had planned more days on St. John. We get a taxi to Trunk Bay, which is as beautiful as the pictures portray. Maybe prettier. We relaxed by the water, snorkeling around the bay. We stayed a couple hours, and then went to Cinnamon Bay. Both gorgeous beyond imagination. We had packed a cooler with liquids and snacks, and made ourselves comfy. We eventually went back to Cruz Bay, and were ready for more discoveries. Remember, we’re cramming. We found ourselves at The Fish Trap for drinks and $12.00 happy hour shrimp plate. From there we went to the Banana Tree for a drink and a nice view. We enjoyed the treehouse- type feel. Onto dinner at Stone Terrace. We had made reservations early, and I’m so glad we did, the sunset was spectacular! We must have taken 15 pictures of this alone! John had snapper, and I had salmon. Very good, with good service. (They make a good blue Caribbean martini).

It is amazing to be seeing this much beauty in one day. We love St. John, and are planning a trip next year. We so thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, and it is amazing, my hip didn’t hurt, John’s knee didn’t hurt,I never felt tired when I awoke in the morning, a miracle in the making.
Getting tan. Feeling rested. Relaxing for the first time since I don’t know when…
We are so lucky to have such a national treasure. I want to tell everyone I know how wonderful it is down here, but then again, I don’t want it getting more commercial, built up, crowded…. It’s our secret.
We can’t wait until next year to introduce our children to this experience.
They will love it.