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Travel Notes #1: Settling In, Relaxation, General Things
We were more concerned about Omar and all the lives it could impact there in the islands then sharing a trip report. But it sounds like those on this forum seem to take these kind of things pretty much in stride. We just hope and pray the storm didn’t upset too much there.
My DW and I were privileged to visit STT/STJ 4-11 Oct. That week the weather was gorgeous – they kept forecasting 30-40 % rain but we only ran into a little rain at STJ and a few sprinkles off and on through the week. We had a great time! Enjoyed the beautiful surroundings, the local people, the driving adventure and all the activities we got to experience. But first off, we do want to thank the administrators of this forum and many of you who share your info and advice here – it was really helpful to us before we left.
We went back to STT this year mainly to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary and renew our vows at the same place on the beach at Magens Bay. We sailed to STT in 1998 by cruise ship for just one day on 8 Oct and hadn’t gotten back since. This year we flew there for a week’s stay.
STT/STJ has so much to offer that it was pretty hard deciding what we’d like to do. Everyone has their own agenda and the ones we met all seemed to be enjoying themselves, whether at one of the beaches, attractions or lounging around the resort pool area. Like many said, we needed to stay another week or two, but since we had but one week we decided we’d shoot for a balance among these three things: 1) definitely get some relaxation, 2) take in a few of the sights/attractions and 3) visit some beaches, especially for some snorkeling. This set of travel notes #1 tells some about us getting settled in, enjoying some relaxation during the week and a general thought or two (I'm going to divide it further into parts to keep the file size down some).
Our AA flight from Miami landed in STT 1 ½ hours late. No problem picking up our rental car at AVIS. We headed into CA around 10:15pm. Driving on the left side of the road was never a problem and it didn’t seem to be a problem to any other drivers we saw on the road. But the lack of road signs on STT was another story. Especially a little tricky when driving at nighttime. In the daytime you can’t miss Bluebeard Castle Hilltop Villas where we were staying. But looking for it the first time in the dark didn’t go too well. To make a long story short, I missed the turn off of Hwy 30 onto Hwy 35 and from there we took a lot of scenic roads and asked directions a few times till we reached the Castle and checked in around 11:15 – their last customer that night. But we found the local people we met in the process extremely friendly and helpful with directions.
We stayed in studio unit # 237 on the second floor in Villa II. The layout reminded us of a Comfort Suite room; just a bit larger to accommodate the kitchenette with sink, stove top burners, microwave and cabinets; plus the outside balcony. It was comfortable enough and we especially enjoyed the view of CA from our balcony. We have stayed in beachfront units in the past and enjoyed ocean/gulf views and being able to walk out onto the beach. But there was something very relaxing and enchanting in looking out from our balcony at the CA harbor, the town and surrounding hillsides. Here’s a few shots taken from our balcony – the second one is actually from Paradise Pt to show where Bluebeard Castle sits.
Travel Notes #1: Settling In, Relaxation, General Things (Continued)
We brought along some food items mainly for breakfast and on Sunday found the stores okay to fix us up for the week. We ate breakfast each morning out on the balcony, and some lunches and dinners there as well. It was really quite relaxing and neat watching CA wake up each morning: seeing the light traffic moving along Hwy 30, picking out the few cars and taxi limos meandering up the hillside on Hwy 35, viewing the many dwellings and structures like Blackbeard’s Castle and the villas scattered here and there across the hills, observing a few boats crossing the waters and before long following a seaplane as it skimmed along the water and climbed into the sky. All this blended in with the surrounding beauty of swaying palm trees and flowery island plants and shrubs – really a sight and location to behold! And in the late afternoons or evenings when we returned from our days’ venture it was the same thing all over again – it was great. During the week there was the added view of the arriving cruise ships –Royal Caribbean and Carnival docking at Havensight Marina on Wednesday, and the next morning seeing the huge Crown Princess docked directly across at Crown Bay Marina. We couldn’t have asked for a better setting. Here’s some related photos:
See, it isn't painful at all! Your pictures are great. I have to say. If you ever go on a Caribbean cruise and come into Charlotte Amalie early in the morning, it is the prettiest town around (IMHO!) Also, there is always something to watch in the harbor- seaplane, cruise ships, sailboats... I had to laugh about driving here (part A) because you learn to do it almost by feel. People swerve around well-known potholes and are surprised when they are patched!
Travel Notes #1: Settling In, Relaxation, General Things (Last Part)
Here some photos around Bluebeard’s Castle, including the chickens and iguanas that roam there free range (you have to look close to see the iguana, but he's there). The last shot is from a viewing spot just above the two well known restaurants there at Bluebeard’s Castle - the Banana Tree and Room With A View, which look down and across the waters to Yacht Haven Grande and Havensight Marina.
Although we enjoyed much of what Bluebeard’s Castle offered we wouldn’t stay there again ourselves or recommend them because at times we could hear our neighbors through the wall talking to each other, as well as their phone ringing – perhaps because of the Castle’s age, maybe the insulation is not that great??? It wasn’t enough to distract us from enjoying the good things we found there, but there are probably better places to consider.
We used our AT&T Wireless phone the first night there with no problem – it helped when we got lost. But Sunday evening after driving around that day we noticed the phone display read “no service” and of course it didn’t work. On Tuesdays, we ran by the AT&T vendor in the K-Mart at Tutu Mall. He checked it over, punched some different numbers on the keypad and got it working again. He explained that there are certain parts of the islands where this happens from interference by a BVI cell phone tower. The phone had no problems the rest of the week even while visiting STJ, so guess we stayed in the right part of the islands.
We had an easy going, relaxing vacation. The local people contributed to that as we found the majority of them always being happy and eager to talk with you and render any help where they could. We got to meet with some at church on Sunday and observing them while driving through the neighborhoods and by their schools – the kids were especially a happy bunch!
We’ll close this part out and hope to get back with travel notes #2 soon and share about the sights and attractions we got to.
Cheers!
East Ender: My first wife and I did about a dozen cruises together when we lived in Florida (she passed away in '95). We sailed in to CA on several occasions. I would agree with you about CA being the pretties seaport. It was even prettier back when there wasn't any Havensight and we came in on the Norway and had to take a tender in to the old harbor there in town. It's a little sad to see that area so vacant these days- it used to be a busy spot, but STT outgrew it. Havensight is nice, and is what is needed, but not as enchanting.
Also, back then Bluebeard's Castle really stood out with its pretty red tile roofs -- mostly by itself before being all built around.
I believe it was in '85 when Phyllis Diller was the celebrity on the SS Norway. She came in on the same tender with us into CA and then got off and hopped in a long white limo and flew back out of STT rather than staying on board for the rest of the cruise. But do you know where that long white limosine came from? Are there any of these kind of limos around over there? I didn't see any, but maybe they are under cover somewhere????
Love your trip reports and the pictures. Congratulations on your wedding anniversary. Seems like you have really enjoyed yourself so far.
Thanks for the trip report and the pictures.
Wonderful trip report!! Cant wait to write my own next month 🙂
Jen
Lo: Yes, there are long white limos. I don't know why, but there are! 😀 I have AT&T and have the same problem once in awhile. Usually just turn it off and back on (universal solution) and it is cool. Can't wait for the attractions!
Everything has changed since 1985. I don't know where the tenders went back then. Ronnie?? Havensight has been here ever since I moved here. Hard to imagine the area without it.
Thanks for sharing. Looks like you had an excellent trip.
At some point, y'all are going to convince me to spend a week on STT, aren't you? 😀
Lojeep: I'm also confused about the reference you made to Havensight and it's not having been there when you sailed in on the Norway. The Havensight Mall area is at The West Indian Company Limited's dock facility which is the original port facility on STT. The Norway always did, and continues to anchor out and transport its passengers by tender to the waterfront as its draw is too deep for docking wharfside either at the WICO dock or at the newer Crown Bay facility.
Havensight has grown by leaps and bounds since the 1980s with the addition of the adjacent Port Of Sale in the early 90s and now with the recent refurbishment of the area formerly occupied by the old Yacht Haven hotel (in its last years known locally as "Rat Haven!") which was finally razed and became what is now the Yacht Haven Grande complex complete with high-end berthing, several luxurious condos selling for multimillions and high-end shopping along with various restaurants.
The WICO port facility was, since the early 20th century, owned and operated by WICO under the umbrella of its parent, the East Asiatic Company Limited of Denmark and was sold to the Government of the Virgin Islands in 1993. Much changes but methinks you're confusing that facility with something else!
That said, I'm delighted that you had such a good time here, your photos are wonderful and hopefully you'll be able to return and savour more!
Oh, by the way, those stretch limos have been around for a while and are a favourite with prom-goers, wedding parties and more. Fun to see them drive around and obviously they get enough business to hang in there although it never fails to amaze me how they navigate all the twisting sharp turns - good drivers, obviously. If you ever get to take one of them for a special occasion, Gonzi is the man! Cheers!
STT Resident: You know more about the details there then I do. I did get my old picture albums out to see what photos I might still have. We did get in there in 1985 and also 1988. I was wrong about Phyllis Diller - it was on the 1988 cruise that she was on the Norway and the tender into STT with us. And the white limo is in the photo too. I guess I didn't think it practical to drive them over there, but you do have long buses, so guess it could be a common thing.
I guess I didn't really mean to say Havensights wasn't there back then. I understand that the West Indian Company docks and Havensight have been there for years. But don't recall passengers going to Havensight in '85 for shopping - perhaps they did. I seem to recall the Carnival ship also anchoring and tendering there passengers to the downtown dock. That's seemed to be where all the shops and activity was. Somewhere along the way more cruise ships began to use the Havensight docks and the Havensight shopping area took off. The first time we docked there was on the Royal Carribean Sovereign of the Seas in 1993, but I know a friend of mine had taken the same ship there a year or two before that and docked at Havensight. The area was nothing like it is now. But I don't really know enough of its history to say much.
Lojeep,
Brought back some memories on that last post. CA harbor before all the development.
In April of 79 an Italian Cruise ship burned at the pier. I was in the USCG in PR and we responded in a helo for Medvacs to Rio Piedras in San Juan. Do not remember transporting anybody though.
The next week was Carnival in STT and my wife and I went for a long weekend. Stayed downtown in the Windjammer - the fanciest place on the main drag. Carnival was great but you could still smell the burnt ship smell.
We had scooters and we covered from CA to Coral Bay in STJ. Not sure I would ride a scooter anymore on STT or STJ.
About a month later I did get this shot from the Helo
But somewhere I have two or three boxes of slides from that weekend - I got to find them.
TomB: Ain't memories great? That's a good shot for photos back then - and a good story of some of how it was back when. My problem is memories just aren't as clear as they used to be. But it's still a lot of fun exercising the brain to try and remember, huh? 😀
Lojeep,
Thanks for sharing! You took some really nice photos! The chicken at Bluebeard's made me laugh, God knows they are taking over the island!
For the record, the Norway is no longer a float, it blew up in Florida, getting ready for a departure and a couple of the workers were killed.
Tho she was old, I sure do miss seeing her out in the harbor....she was there every Wednesday from the time I moved here in 82 (obviously before that) until, I think 2001 or maybe 2002. Havensight wouldn't have been prevalent in your mind as cruisers were taken into Charlotte Amalie from the Norway. The Crown Bay dock came about much later, but can't remember the year that it opened, but remember when they did a lot of dredging to build it up and to create land. Have pictures, but they are currently packed up and safe from any would be storms.
I used to drive Limo for Honey B Limo service, now a new owner, and boy was that scary the first time I had to make a sharp turn! I had never been in a limo prior to actually driving one, wow! I still marvel at the longer stretches, but they ARE limited as to where they can go!
So happy you had a wonderful time and Congrats on your anniversary! Hope we see you again! (tu)
Travel Notes #2: Sights/Attractions
We’re going to cover STT only in these notes and include STJ outings in our travel notes #3.
Being it was off-season in the islands, we saw little or no crowds, which made it very nice. Even on Wednesday when the Royal Caribbean and Carnival Cruise Ships were docked at Havensight Marina - and Thursday, when the huge Crown Princess was docked at the Crown Bay Marina. Someone mentioned that during peak season there can be as many as 10 cruise ships docked in CA on some days (hard to imagine what that might be like?).
We only did land based sightseeing and attractions, since one of us is prone to motion sickness. No doubt, the airborne and boating adventures in the islands offer a lot of fun for some – we’ll leave it to them to give a trip report about those. We were quite happy with our agenda and especially glad that we chose to have a rental car. It gave us a bit more freedom and discretion in choosing what, when and how long we took in any sights. We had a compact which handled the tight steep hills real well and made parking easy. We were tempted to take a ride in one of the interesting looking open-air taxi limos seen all over the islands - just for kicks ‘cause they just look like they'd be a fun ride! We took this photo of one:
We didn’t find the time to drive all the roads of STT, but did enough to get to know the key ones pretty well - don’t believe we’d get lost there again. You do need the map and to be especially alert for signs, which are easy to miss or are non-existent where you believe there should be a sign. They say you can’t get lost on STT because it’s not that big, but you can sure get turned around if you don’t watch it. But having to turn around occasionally added to the fun.
We saw a lot of the same sights that most have mentioned on this forum. We loved driving along the hills and stopping at some of the viewing cutouts. However, we discovered later on that some of the cutouts we pulled into were not viewing sites but were the private parking spaces of an adjacent residence (we didn’t get caught but some of the locals told us it does upset some owners when people pull in and use their private parking areas as a viewing site). On STT we stopped at Drake Seat with the beautiful scene of Magens Bay below (the seat itself needs a little repair and upkeep); Mountain Top with it shops, viewing platform and banana daiquiris; Skyline Drive, and others. Here are a few photos:
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We took in Coral World located next to Coki Point beach – it’s not all that big but is worth a visit (the map sheet has a $3 discount coupon per adult). We didn’t do their underwater trek, which they try to promote - it is fairly costly and the fish didn’t look all that special around there. The stingrays and lorikeets (half parrot and half humming bird) there were a hoot! Here are some photos:
One day we visited the Butterfly Farm located on the road inside Havensight at the far west end – went in the a.m. when the butterflies are pretty active and back again in the afternoon when they seem to light more for some good photos (it’s a one-time entrance fee for visiting anytime throughout the day) . They are friendly folks there who own and run it and Heather (who’s a member of this forum) gave us an excellent tour – she said she has only been there three month but you wouldn’t believe it by all she knows about butterflies. Here are a couple of photos:
We took the Sky Ride up to Paradise Point for their great views and Bushwhackers. Here are a few photos taken from there:
Of course, we got in to downtown CA to the shops. We wanted to go to Cuzzin’s for some Conch Fritters and lunch but they were still closed for the off-season. One of the locals recommended Gladys’s, located in one of the sidewalk alleys, and they were definitely a winner – pretty crowded, but their servicers were nice and took care of a lot of folks in good fashion.
We drove out to Magens Bay on our anniversary and renewed our vows as we had planned. We swung by Udder Delight, renowned for their ice cream or shakes, but it was a bit too early to check them out. That evening, we celebrated with dinner at Mafolie’s restaurant, being seated at a table right on the railing where we had a great view looking down the hillside at CA and the harbor. Food and service were great. DW had a good size lobster and I had their seafood pasta with some of the best scallops and shrimp. Here are some photos:
We’ll close these notes out and try to finish up soon with our final travel notes #3 of our beach outings and STJ visit.
Hook ‘em Horns! #1 right now!
Being that I am a wedding coordinator, I loved seeing your pictures of your vow renewal. How SWEET! Vow renewals are my favorite by far......years later, knowing the couple are still in love! :@)
You have done such a wonderful job on sharing your story complete with picutures! Thanks so much, I have enjoyed reading every bit!
😎
How romantic!! Cheers to you both
Jeniffer
