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St Thomas Caper - August 19 - Counting Down

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St Thomas Caper - August 19 - Counting Down

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(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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Hi all!

I'm following Jan W's advice and have plans to spend 2 weeks in August at Villa Fairwinds www.fairwinds.vi on the Peterborg Peninsula on STT. Remember that when Jan asked for our advice about Fairwinds, I checked into it and thought that it was an exceptional value for the area, villa size, views, pool, etc. Peterborg really is my hands-down favorite location on STT, so this is perfect.

On this caper, we'll be flying down after summer camp for my daughter ends...and meeting up with my parents (Dad retired on Friday!) who will have already spent most of August on Tortola. Mom and dad, who especially love Tortola and STJ, will join us on STT for part of our stay at Fairwinds.

Dad called moments ago (he and mom are already off on a beach adventure in celebration of dad's liberation) and said "hey, let's turn this into a real caper and do some sailing of the BVIs!". I'm sure we'll stick to daysails since I need to be back in Philadelphia before schools start, but that's fine with me. So, I'll be looking at the old posts on daysails for recommendations.

Thanks to everyone here for keeping my interest keen with the trip reports and constant updates of what's what. I hope some of the regulars will let me know if any get together are planned during my visit.

41 days and a wake-up!

 
Posted : July 8, 2006 4:28 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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Im excited for you
have a great time

 
Posted : July 9, 2006 1:29 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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Thanks gobucs! Likewise, I am excited for you and your stay at Stone Cottage. No worries, that property is managed by Nancy Anderson's agency....she is notorious for her high standards. If a villa is listed with her, I wouldn't worry. She drops villas if they fall below her high standards....and I personally know some villa owners who took their villas off of her program (or she booted them off - not sure) because they didn't want to jump through too many hoops in terms of the upkeep and lux level amenities. As villa traveler, you can't go wrong with her.

Even if you aren't renting through her, and you're going thru a wholesaler, you can rest assured since she lists Stone Cottage on her site as one of her properties (she manages them and rents them).

Will you have a 4WD? If so, I can direct you to some very "Robinson Crusoe" beaches in that area - pure heaven and away from the tourist crowd - but you'll want a 4WD to get to them.

 
Posted : July 9, 2006 1:43 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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Yes we rented a jeep.
Do you know if they are automatic or stick shift?
Yeah those beaches sound dreamy, any info would be a great help.

Too bad we wernt going the same time

Youve been so helpful Thanks again

 
Posted : July 9, 2006 2:07 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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Hmmm...not sure if jeeps are stick or auto...but I don't think all of the remtal jeeps are 4WD. You may want to check.

Here's a pic of one of my favorite out of the way beaches - Neltjberg.

And here is a visual of the road to get to Neltjberg - the zig-zag road on the right side, with the beach at the bottom, is it.

History:
History of Neltjberg (courtesy of VI Daily News)...
The Neltjeberg plantation, once more than 200 acres, first was settled in 1690, Mills said. The ruins visible today probably were constructed in the 18th century, though some buildings were added on to or modified during the years.

A large set of ruins, those of the old rum factory, are just off the rough dirt road that ends right before the beach and are barely visible from the road in the deep shadows of vegetation.

The factory walls that remain are about two stories tall, and the floor — which still has an old boiler, a large metal bowl now filled with rainwater and fallen leaves — sinks down several feet below ground level. Overall, the factory, which later was converted into a house, is in poor shape today: The roof is long gone, several walls have fallen down and numerous trees grow inside. Still, several walls remain and appear sturdy as they soar high above the forest floor.

Nearby are many other ruins, including a horse mill, the equestrian equivalent to a windmill. Here, horses or donkeys would walk in a large circle, yoked to gears that powered the factory’s presses. Just up the hill are the partial remains of what is believed to be old slave quarters.

Historian David Knight said slave society was very stratified, and rock-walled buildings such as this one would have housed supervisors or others at the upper level of society. Common laborers likely were housed in simple thatched-palm huts.

The plantation produced rum and molasses until the middle part of the 19th century, researchers believe. A devastating hurricane in 1867, followed a few weeks later by a massive earthquake, damaged much of the plantation’s operations and marked the beginning of its end. The privately owned ruins at Neltjeberg are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The designation is an honor, but it has no bearing on what can be done with the ruins.

And the St Source Newspaper gives this glimpse of Neltjberg:

Neltjberg

Adventure Factor: Extreme
Shade Factor: High
Ocean patrol: Neltjberg is often rough and murky, but on those rare days when the seas are mild and clear (often in the summer months) the snorkeling rocks!, with beautiful, living reef all over the place.
Food and Drink!: Only what you can bring.
Peace Factor: Extreme
Sports: Only what you can bring.
Family Factor: Depends. See description below.
Extras: See description below.
Getting There: See description below.

Neltjberg is a beach that never makes it into guides because most of the people who know about it don't want anyone else to. Why should they? It's one of the last remaining spots of nearly untouched paradise left on St. Thomas, or just about anywhere for that matter, and usually people like to keep such secrets for themselves. From the moment you first emerge from the bush onto the smooth, white sand you feel like you're on your own personal deserted island. Not everyone likes this feeling, but for those who do, this is the spot. Period. Sitting on the crescent quarter-mile of Caribbean heaven you'll see scarless green hills rolling up around you without another soul in sight - unless someone else happens by at the same time as you. This is possible, but not inevitable. Neltjberg is the stuff that island dreams are made of, and we at the Source know of more than one person who's hatched their own personal have-to-live-here plan while under the spell of this beach. But getting there is no joke. Seriously, don't even try it unless you have a 4-wheel drive vehicle with some serious clearance. Head west on Crown Mountain Road, Route 33, from Four Corners, after you pass the gas station on your right, start paying attention. From Four Corners the turnoff is approximately 1.2 miles, but it's only .25 miles past the gas station. On your right you'll see a pink cement house with a spooky driveway-looking thing just to the left of it. That's your road. Head downhill and good luck. For most of the trip down you'll find the road is a steep, rock and dirt mess with several switchbacks. Go left at a fork when the road starts to level out and you're there. Good luck and remember to be respectful of this beautiful place: if you bring it in, take it out with you when you leave.

 
Posted : July 9, 2006 2:37 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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You are AWESOME AND YOU ROCK!!!!!

Wont tell a sole.

and i will make sure i have a 4wd

Are the reefs still colorful or are they brown?

GoBucs

 
Posted : July 9, 2006 4:32 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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I've never snorkeled there - but if you read the description written in the newspaper, it specifically notes that the reef is alive. I got turned onto Neltjberg only about 2 yrs ago when Caribbean Travel and Life Magazine featured a full page picture of it.

By the way, I didn't think the drive down was as bad as the write-up makes it sound.....but then agin, I wasn't the one driving. Just take it slowly.....some of it is paved, but most isn't.

 
Posted : July 9, 2006 4:57 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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What a piece of paradise:)

I told my husband and he was excited, we love adventure
Even the ruins got me excited

Cant wait to go and let you know my thoughts

They will be all good

 
Posted : July 9, 2006 5:08 pm
(@sherri)
Posts: 1218
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Dear Bluwater,
WOW! I am impressed with your info.- seems you go that extra mile yourself! Neltjberg is an awesome beach which we frequent ourselves. Tho I didn't mention it as one of the closest beaches to Stone Cottage, in all reality it is closer than Hull Bay. The road tho, makes it a further~ more time consuming drive! All rental vehicles are automatic and you should have no problems at all getting there! Just don't do what one of our guests did and try to drive on the beach! They got stuck and had to have a toe-truck come and get them after a long walk up the hill!!!! 🙂 Since that mishap, I have been extremely careful about whom I tell about the beach. Didn't want to be held responsible if you know what I mean! For those whom don't have 4WD, you can also hike over to Neltjberg from Dorothea Bay. Tho this is harder to carry your drinks and food! The road isn't that bad, only after heavy rains when the road gets washed out in places is it major difficult. The only thing you would encounter now is high step-offs from the concrete sections that were placed on each switchback. It is awesome and worth the drive and very much an adventure!!!! Most guests absolutely love it and a couple felt uncomfortable as you are far away from the rest of the world!
BLUWATER- Kudos to you for some awesome information!

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 9:30 am
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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Thanks Sherri. I've been traveling to the USVI for my entire life - countless visits and also residency as a child. Mom and dad would move us down there and we'd stay until the money ran out - move back stateside - save $ - and repeat. 🙂

I've been to Neltjberg once - on a Feb 2006 visit. I didn't get to stay long because my daughter was stung by a bee down there. But, I saw enough to know that it is now on my "must do" list. Finding the road to Neltjberg was a hilarious adventure. I was with a local who is a good friend. He had no idea how to get to the road. We asked dozens of people and nobody knew. Ronnie (RonUSVI) had previously told me to look for the graves on the opposite side of the road. When we found the graves, we stopped to ask a man who was working on his car in his drive way - and he motioned behind him - the "driveway" was the access road to Neltjberg. We were in a 4WD - and it did take a while ot get down the mountain.....and I can see why someone might feel isolated down there. I wouldn't have felt ok going alone (I am female).....but there were about 2 other couples and one family down there....everyone was spread out - but close enough to hear a call for help.

At the time I was there, Ihadn't yet seen the article about the history and the Mill ruins. On the next visit, I will look for that.

The water was clear on my visit - but I think I recall a reef being just off shore - not a soft, sandy bottom across the entire bay area. So, this seems to be a great beach for those who want to snorkel and experience something really natural. It feels very natural.

There is a large home (perhaps a rental villa) up on the peninsula to the right. Do those people have to travel up and down that mountain every time they want to come and go? I recall thinking that their road was accessed by taking the right at the fork, as opposed to the left to get to the beach.

Anyway, I do hope that visitors will be responsible about visiting this beach....and locals won't be upset with me about posting this info here. I really don't see this beach being overrun with tourists - the road is too bad and it is too remote for most people's taste.

How long is the hike from Dorothea?

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 9:59 am
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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You are the best at all info,

Im impressed!!
Your my "New Best Friend"

And thanks to Sherri for hers as well

So if something were to happen we could always walk up to that house for help?
Since im going the soonest i will keep you all informed

Go Bucs

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 11:20 am
(@sherri)
Posts: 1218
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Hi All,
All people should know that you definitely do want 4WD to access this beach! I have never heard of any problems at the beach. I very recently got to meet the owners (nice people) of the house bluwater mentioned, they said they MIGHT do some short term, but in about 2 yrs, they want to be there full time and I am told they keep someone on the property full time now. It is still under construction, so there are workers up there for the moment. One thing for sure, it is a awesome place and will be beautiful! And yes, they have to drive up and down that road every time!!!!!! 🙂
Last I heard the trail that went from Dorothea to Neltjberg has been closed off (due to the house) and I was told that you have to walk/climb on the rocks to go around to the next bay. Guessing 20 minutes? I will see if I can find out any more. Tho if that is the only way to access it, again it is worth it!
Bluwater, your recollections were right as to turning to the right to go to the house and left to the beach. The ruins are on the left of where you would park and you will also see some graves that had to be re-concreted due to a tractor bulldozing them down as he didn't see them.
Just tried snorkeling for the first time down there about 2 weeks ago, only I got one of the murky days! Been there ALOT of times, but had never tried to snorkel before.
Gobucs, I will be meeting you at the airport to take you to Stone Cottage!
Bluwater, maybe we can connect when you come down!
In anwer to your earlier question about the villa you are staying at, I do believe there has been some added homes, but will ck up on that!

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 1:49 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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Topic starter
 

The owners of that house are smart...getting in on that ahead of the crowd! They surely selected a nice piece of property - sitting out on that peninsula and having beautiful bays on both sides. I, too, would have gladly tolerated the road for that opportunity. Sherri, tell them that I volunteer to "test out" the house before they move in or rent it - ha ha - you know, just to make sure everything is "okay". 🙂

Thanks for the offer to get the scoop on new homes out on Peterborg. I see so many new villa names on the agent sites, so I'm sure things have changed since my last Peterborg stay in July '05 - at that time, I saw a few bulldozers on the hillside.

Yes, let's catch up next month! Its a plan!

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 2:14 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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Sherri,
Im so excited that we get to put a face with a name:)
We will be wearing our Tampabay football jerseys on purpose so you wont have any problem knowing who we are.

Cant wait to meet you so we can chat, I have a feeling well be driving you crazy with questions (not to many )

Anyway looking forward and cant wait to see our cottage.

By the looks of it your getting rained out?

GO BUCS

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 2:59 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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To bad your not going the same time:(

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 3:01 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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gobucs, are you watching the weather channel? STOP NOW!

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 4:55 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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Cant help but watch the weather cuz our local station is always showing the tropics:P

Glad i took the travel insurance

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 6:38 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
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Topic starter
 

they show rain all the time...every day....I have gone down to the VI for years....staying for 2 wks at a time....and the weather channel always shows rain, rain ,rain....and I have always had sun, sun sun. Ignore it. It is not accurate - never has been - never will be.

 
Posted : July 10, 2006 11:24 pm
(@gobucs)
Posts: 274
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Thanks
I wont watch it again!!!!!!

 
Posted : July 11, 2006 7:07 am
(@sherri)
Posts: 1218
Noble Member
 

I'll let the owners know that you will be the tester outer!!! The house is amazing, I can tell you that! I will be sure to look for the jerseys, I will have a yellow Mclaughlin shirt on and of course a sign with your name on it!
Bluwater, looking forward to meeting with you in Aug. Didn't get the time to ck out your place today, but should be-able to tomorrow! Have company down and am throwing a baby shower at RW's on Sunday, so I have been toooo busy! Now to boot I have gotten hooked on this forum!
Not to worry about the weather, even when it does rain, it is for a short 10 minutes or so! Not getting any hurricanes this year!!!!!! 🙂

 
Posted : July 11, 2006 8:58 pm
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