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St. Croix Report

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(@Joanne)
Posts: 1
 

I returned last week from eight days in St. Croix - my 23rd trip their. Since my usual trip reports tend to run into several pages rather than paragraphs, and since my desk is still buried under an apparent avalanche of paperwork, I’ll be as brief as is possible (for me) this time.

Thurs., 3/11
Flight delays meant that while we left home at 4:30 AM we didn’t arrive until almost 5:00 PM. Oh well, better that they fix the plane than get me there on time. Happy hour at Rumrunners (which is in the hotel and on the water), then dinner at The Bombay Club, as usual the filet mignon ($20.50 with two sauces, potatoes and salad) was delicious.

Fri., 3/12
Having trouble accounting for this day, which I think was spent mostly puttering around the pool and renewing acquaintances. We stay at the Hotel Caravelle on the waterfront in the historic district of downtown Christiansted and are always treated extremely well there. Breakfast (omelette) at Shenanigan’s for about $5, happy hour (again) and dinner (again) at Bombay where fish and chips (fresh mahi in a superb batter for $10) was terrific.

Sat., 3/13
The day of the St. Patrick’s Day parade in Christiansted. Breakfast again at Shenanigan’s (smoked salmon omelette with cream cheese, dill and capers), posed on the webcam for the folks back home and then off to the parade. The streets are full and the atmosphere is festive with many vendors selling local food. Parade itself is a hoot and a great deal of fun. Last year we had our own float, but this year we armed ourselves with bubble guns and filled King Street with bubbles. Lunch at Pleasant’s (burger, about $6), then pool time. Friends took us out to the new restaurant at Hibiscus Beach – H20. Beautiful location and fairly upscale with large appetizer portions that served as dinner (crab cakes, $9.50; chicken satay $6.50). We'll want to go there again.

Sun., 3/14
Out to Cane Bay for brunch (lobster omelette with tons of lobster, home fries, fruit - $12, excellent huevos rancheros with same sides - $8). Other friends then came and took us out to Sandy Point. This is a wildlife refuge and sea turtle nesting site, open to the public only on Saturday and Sunday, September to March. This beach is one of the longest stretches of sand in the entire Caribbean and is the site where the last scene of The Shawshank Redemption was filmed. Incredible doesn’t begin to describe it – sandy, with a quick drop off and lots of waves, it’s absolutely gorgeous. Dinner yet again at Bombay because choices are limited a bit on Sundays and we split the aforementioned filet mignon this time (I really like this place).

Mon., 3/15
Skipped breakfast and had an early lunch at Rumrunners with still other friends (tried their fish and chips with a chipotle remoulade - $11 and pretty darn good). Spent the rest of the day in the sun by the pool or shopping. Happy hour at Rumrunners then dropped by the crab races but did not purchase a loser crab this time. Dinner was at Luncheria, where a huge plate of food and a “cool refreshing adult beverage” (margarita) came to about $12.

Tues., 3/16
Walked the half mile to Gallows Bay for breakfast at The Golden Rail in the marina (around $5). Again relaxed by the pool and shopped. Happy hour again at Rumrunners and dinner again at Bombay Club because you can’t quarrel with success.

Weds., 3/17
Off to pick up a rental car for the day, which we plan to spend at the Divi resort on the southeast shore. Arrived there around 11 to meet friends for lunch, then to the beach where we met other friends. They decided we needed to take back roads up to get close to the Contessa’s Castle, which we did, and then went out to Point Udall, which we hadn’t seen since the Millenium Monument was erected. Thereafter we went to explore the ruins of the old Grapetree Hotel, which was destroyed by hurricane Hugo in 1989. It must have been a very nice place prior to the storm. Returned to get ready for dinner, preceded by happy hour with friends who live at The Reef (upscale condos out east). Dinner at Duggan’s was superb (crab and white asparagus bisque, grilled mahi with crab and goat cheese – somewhat expensive and worth every penny), I can’t believe we haven’t gone here before.

Thurs., 3/18
Our last day. Up early to take the car back, then walked to Gallows Bay again for breakfast and to check out a store we had only learned about last night. Then last minute packing and shopping followed by a tiny bit of pool time. Our flight was at 3:40 and we left for the airport around 1:40. This was more than enough time for this flight, but is probably barely sufficient for Saturday returns. No hitches this time and we were lucky enough to find a sports bar in the airport in San Juan where we could watch the Syracuse/BYU basketball game (Go SU!) during our layover. Arrived home about 11:30 and could almost watch our tans fade as we deplaned :-(. Only 212 days until our next trip and I miss it already.

Weather Report: It was warm, as was the ocean (surprisingly) but not stifling. There were more clouds and it was windier than it has been at this time of year in the past – there’s just no predicting. No problem to speak of with rain, a few extremely light showers and one or two heavier squalls that were short and occurred very early in the morning, so they did not interfere with any plans we had.

Changes in Restaurants: Tutto Bene has move just east of C’sted because of landlord problems at their previous location, Stixx is open only for dinner (I won’t go there anyway), Indies has closed, Savant has a new courtyard out back that is very nice, Top Hat was sold to Kendrick’s and now operates as Truffles, Rumrunners now has a deck bar serving sushi, Marina Bar is closed as the King’s Alley Hotel is renovated, and I’ve already mentioned H20 at Hibiscus. Reservations were a must for all of the better restaurants.

Shopping: We generally buy our liquor at either Baci or Royal English in Christiansted. Baci is consolidating its two stores and moving into the space previously occupied by Colombian Emeralds. We also picked up items at Tesoro (great tropical pieces, pretty reasonable prices), Traveler’s Tree in Gallows Bay (great decorator items and touches), at Jan Mitchell’s fantastic glass studio (always a must stop place), The Jewelry Factory (moderately priced), Violette Boutique (discounted top line cosmetics), Many Hands (local artisans) and some cute shirts from Up Island. One of our favorite clothing stores, Out of the Blue, is closing – they said business is good for them but they just want to do something else. Depending on who you talk to business is up or down, but overall it looked improved.

 
Posted : March 25, 2004 3:15 pm
(@sandcrab)
Posts: 152
Estimable Member
 

Great report! Already have my two weeks reserved for March 2005.

 
Posted : May 12, 2004 4:58 am
(@linda)
Posts: 1
 

we were just having this discussion with a local 2 sundays ago the final boat scene was most definately shot at sandy point but the mexico scenes were shot along the south coast road which could defingtely mimic mexican landscape with the beautiful waters and cactus.. st croix is currently being considered a very desirable film making location..under us flag, no taxes,beautiful archictecture as well as landscape, and CHEAPER than la or ny rumour has it richard gere and filom co. inc were in stx about a month and 1/2 ago for just that reason

 
Posted : May 25, 2004 5:44 pm
(@113EstJF)
Posts: 1
 

I met the Contessa's long, long time ago at a reception in her house. I'm almost certain she's Hungarian, and married into the title, but I met her in '88. Inside of the place was beautiful and it looked like a mixture of old Spain (Moorish influence) and tropics. She is very nice and speaks several different languages. I was in college then. My aunt was visiting us from europe and she ended up knowing one of Contessa's friends in Paris. That was the only time I've been there. At the time, there weren't any guards but she did have a staff that took care of the property. I'd guess the people you saw are the staff. The old manager of Little Switzerland and his partner were also friends of the Contessa....they were great folks.

Joanne, great trip report. STX will always have a place in my heart. One day we'll get back and build on my little property. Everytime we go back, I drive up to the old house just to see...lots and lots of pleasant memories from JF beach and all the other little deserted places we used to "park", Sandy Point (best beach in US/BVIs), Sundowner's (killer Pain-Killers but no mas), etc. I met former girlfriend of Seinfeld, "Shoshy", at Sundowner. She was there with her (step?) sister and brothers staying at ...(forget the name of the condo's on northshore road on the way to Cane Bay). I think her sister was going to Maryland at the time.

STX is a completely different island than St. Thomas (THANK GOD) and St. John.

 
Posted : May 26, 2004 10:06 am
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