We are frequent travelers to both STJ and Jost (7 years). With that being said I can offer the following info:

On Jost (JVD) staying at Ivan's is amazing. There are plenty of tent sites. The place is amazing. Very low key. You rent a site, pitch a tent and then sit back and enjoy and relax. Ivan's offers a kitchen for their guests where you can cook your meals, there are two fridge/freezers for storing your food items. You'll find at Ivan's the most friendly people on the earth. The staff there is amazing. The guests that stay there become your family and you'll want to return year after year. Most times you'll meet up w/ others and wind up having a community dinner (i.e. we have chicken, they have rice, someone else has salad, someone else has fresh caught fish and you you make a family style meal and make great new friends). The amenities at Ivan's are simple. shared bathroom and showers, shared kitchen but the best part is the people you meet! There are places on JVD to dine out at if you don't want to cook. Ivan does a BBQ every Thursday night that is amazing. Foxy's does one on Friday nights and then there is other places to dine; Corsair's for great pizza and other items and if you are lucky enough and have the time you can preorder a sushi dinner (they require 48 hr. notice), Ali Baba's has amazing home cooked dishes. Soggy Dollar for lunch if you choose. There is limited provisions on the island, but you can do a grocery order to a store on Tortolla that will deliver your grocery needs to Ivan's via the ferry provided you give them a days notice, you order your provisions, they pack it and ship it over on the ferry. You just go and pick it up.

As for camping on STJ there is Cinnamon Bay Campground. Never actually camped there but have been there dozens of time. The beach is beautiful, they have showers, changing rooms, and a restaurant and small store on site. The campsites are all steps from the beach!

I don't think you are allowed to just pitch a tent at will on either island. But I'm not 100% positive on that one.

If you want further info on Jost or STJ I'd be happy to answer if I can.

Enjoy your travels.

As for fishing: I know on STJ you can fish w/out a license if you are using it for personal use. I'm not sure about lobster though! You'll have to research that one.

This link will provide the information you need on fishing in the USVI:

https://www.vinow.com/general_usvi/more_info/fishing/

and you should also check out Maho Bay campgrounds on St John. No, can't just pitch a tent on a beach!

Cinnamon has tent sites a few steps back from the beach--on the sand, in the shade. Some very nice tent sites to the right side and up the hill--on a cliff, overlooking the beach. Biv-wacking on the public beaches is discouraged, you'll get hassled by the locals, or worse. Pack gallons of industrial strength OFF and SPF 100.

oops. Forgot to add, kayaks are available at Cinnamon. And yes, no guide needed. Depending upon conditions you can explore some of the near-by coves on STJ.

Not sure about "back packing around the BVI". You may want to make some reservations in advance and consider renting a car on tortola / virgin gorda. I think there is a camping/eco resort on Tortola as well.

I will answer the questions that I can about St. John.

1. While on any of the islands we would like to rent kayaks and paddle along and around all the coves stopping to snorkel and relax. We would like to do this as a self guided trip and not with a tour. Is this allowed?

Yes, you can find kayaks for rent at Cinnamon, Maho and in Coral Bay at Crabbys. I know of no one who rents out of Cruz Bay you could check with Low Key or one of the other dive or dinghy outfitters in Cruz bay. From Maho you can reach Whistling Cay easily. From Cinnamon you can easily reach Cinnamon Cay. In Coral Bay you have very large bay to explore. I have also seen a handful of villas who have a kayak at the villa for renters use.

2. How about fishing? Can you just throw a line in the water and catch some fish for dinner. Again, we do not want to spend $500 to fishing but would like to just do it locally. I assume we need a fishing license. What about catching lobster and cooking it for dinner. Is this allowed?

You should check with the National Park Service website and also check into the local regulations for licenses and regulations. One thing to keep in mind is the threat of cituguera (sp?) It is a disease carried by certain fish that are normally located in and around the shoreline. It has been found in fish in the VI's.

3. We may do some camping. This place looks great and appears to be recommended.[www.ivanscampground.com].
Can you recommend some other ecofriendly camping on St. John, Tortola, or Jost Van Dyke. What about pitching a tent on the beach?

The NPS has Cinnamon Bay and offers campsites & sites with tents. I understand that reservations are normally required. Maho and Corncordia offers eco-tents. Maho is on the north shore and is looking at closing sometime soon. Concordia is on the south shore near Salt Pond. No bare sitesat either of these locations. Reservations are also suggested at Maho and Concordia. There is a place on the north shore called Botanical Gardens that may offer camping. I have never read a review of them but we did speak with a park service employee that we picked up hitchiking in Cruz Bay. He was staying there long term and the thing I remember he said is that it was spartan.

What about pitching a tent on the beach
It is illegal in the National Park and outside it is all privately owned land. The answer is NO.

4. Any other thoughtys or recommendations that you have would be great.

High season on StJ starts on 15 Dec for most villas and accomodations, 01 Dec for others.
You did not mention if you plan to rent a jeep. You will see much more of the island if you have one.
Surfing is not a "common" sport on StJ. The surf is usually calm. The only place that I have seen anyone surf is on Reef Bay.
December sometimes brings a northern wind. If you find the wind is up on the north shore you can head to the south shore beaches for calm water.
Consider purchasing a guidebook such as Off the Beaten Path by Gerald Singer to find out more about the history, the hiking trails, the beaches and snorkel sites. You can also pick up a lot of information from sites such as this one (in the menu line above, hover your mouse over the island you desire and click on the sub-menu item) or:
www.seestjohn.com

Just a quick note, in case you were thinking of the Botanical Villas; the owner of Botanical Villas moved to the US temporarily and the campground/hostel wasn't running last time I called. It's too bad, it sounded like a great, basic, cheap place to stay in platform tents. Cinnamon Bay was the next cheapest campground we found on STJ

Hi DuBose,

On Tortola, there is a private campground right on the beach at Brewer's Bay, under lots of trees. There is a stand selling snack and drinks. You might have to bring in your own supplies. Even though the bay is dotted with nice villas, the road to get there is not well marked, nor maintained. It traverses a mountain with steep roads and hair-raising switchbacks.

Bomba Shack is at Apple Bay, a long and very difficult drive back to the campground. Do not do this drive at night, especially after a few drinks.

The best surfing on Tortola is on Long Bay, right next to Bomba Shack. This is where you can find cheaper accomodations.

Down the road from Long Bay, thru another small dirt road full of pot holes and rocks, you will find Smuggler's Cove. The nicest beach on Tortola, IMO.
On the beach, there are 2 stands selling alcohol mixed smoothies. Check with the guy on the left. He will direct you to some locals where you might be able to pitch a tent on their property.

You will need your passport and lots of Off .

Have fun.