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Need advice on my first trip to St. John

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Need advice on my first trip to St. John

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 Tmpy
(@tmpy)
Posts: 20
Eminent Member
Topic starter
 

Hi Everyone,
I've been lurking on this board for quite a while and the advice and topics are really helping me plan my first trip to St. John. Thank you all so much. I have pages and pages printed of topics covered and I can't wait to go. Unfortunately our trip is 6 months away so I'm sure I'll find a lot of answers to my many questions.

Since I'm going in mid Jan.(I believe high season) leaving on a Friday morning and returning on a Tuesday night, I was wondering about some advice on renting a jeep. My husband and I are staying at the Westin with my brother and sister in law. My question is should I rent a jeep for 3 days, Sat morning until Tues morning or just rent for one day or even two? I can't seem to make up my mind because I also want to do a day trip to Baths or Virgin Gorda and don't know if I'll need the jeep that day. Even though the island is small I want to see it all. I hope my expectations aren't too high for the little time we have there. I believe the other 3 want to visit St. Thomas since we'll be so close. From what I've read I really don't want to go to St. Thomas especially with all the cruise ships in port. To be quite honest I hate crowds the cruise ships bring.

Soooo I thought I'd ask the experts on their advice.
Thanks for any advice you can give a first timer.

Regards to all,
Tmpy

 
Posted : July 25, 2005 7:25 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
Noble Member
 

Tmpy-

What time are you arriving on Friday? If you arrive in the afternoon, you really have Sat, Sun & Mon. Tuesday is your departure day, so you'll have 1/2 the day, which is never really relaxing as you're checking your watch and preparing to leave. Are you suggesting that you might go to the Baths and STT...I suggest not to try all of that.

I would rent the jeep for 2 days and take the Baths trip on the other day. Will the Baths trip boat pick you up at the Westin dock? If not, have dinner in Cruz Bay before cabbing it back to the Westin. (unless you plan to eat at the Westin).

I don't know why people think it's not good to go to STT. The feeling is different than STJ....it's more cosmopolitan, more formal, more cultural, etc.....but some might enjoy that as a departure from the famed beach-bum life on STJ. I dare say I think there are many who will steer you away from STT because it's where many of the West Indian natives live....where STJ has a distincly more "white" feeling as the wealthy mainland tycoons buy up what little real estate there is to be had on STJ, pricing locals out of the market. For some "less cultured" travelers, this is appealing........but to think that this is an immersion in VI culture is a fallacy.

STT is where the cultural lines meet.....where you'll hear various languages being spoken, where you'll see people from other countries, you'll hear music from other countries, you'll find more restaurants that you can handle in a lifetime of travels, etc.

However, this might be too much culture for some....and that might be why you read the "don't go to STT" reports. Those reports usally come from the VI newbies....those who haven't been going for years and don't know where to go or how to travel the VI, so they stick to what's safe and comfortable to them....and most resembles their home town...except you add beautiful beaches and swaying palms.

Do a search of the VI Daily news and you'll find an article on what I'm talking about with regard to what's going on on STJ and the local reaction to it. Most visitors are oblivious to the problems on STJ brought on by the "haves" vs the "have nots" battle.

There are exceptions...STJ has it's following of folks who also know STT and have a bog preference for STJ....but they're a rare find. Most seasoned VI travelers can share the good and bad of both islands. I love STJ...stayed there last year....but I don't see it as being "better" than STT, just different. After a month on STT, I might be ready for STJ...and vice versa. I see thse two islands as complimeting each other, not competing.

It's really a matter of your travel taste...and what you're looking for on any given trip.

For the purposes of time and sanity, I wouldn't go to STT on this trip. You really don't have enough time to do it all. Stick to STJ for 2 days and add sidetrip to the Baths on the other day. Definitely venture beyond the Westin's beach (which is only a so-so beach) and use yoru jeep to get over to Honeymoon, Hawksnest, Jumbie, Maho, Saltpond, Trunk, and maybe snorkel Waterlemon if you can.

While you're driving, check out some of the villas and consider them as an option for your return trip when you'll stay at least a week:)...then two.....:) (and look at those driveways to those villas and you'll know why visitors need jeeps).

If you decide to visit STT, email me and I'll share some "no crowd" secrets with you...."private" beaches, etc.

Enjoy....be safe....drink rum!

 
Posted : July 26, 2005 7:39 am
(@betsy)
Posts: 1
 

we are leaving for St Thomas the week of August 7-14 and I was reading your message board and I would like to have the "no crowd" secrets Bluwater if you don't mind - this is my families first time to the islands and it was nice to hear that St Thomas is a wonderful place to vacation - a friend of mine stays on St John (for years) and was very upset that I chose St Thomas over St Johns - we will be taking our two children with us who are ages 18 and 21 - so when I booked this trip - I booked it with them in mind - I thought that St Thomas would have more things for them to see and do - also my 18 wants to shop until she drops - I am planning a day sail (not sure with who yet) and maybe a day trip to St Johns - we are staying at the Marriott Frenchman's Reef - hoping and praying that all bad weather stays away - this was the only week we could possibly go because our son did a summer session at our local university - so please any helpful advise would be welcome

 
Posted : July 26, 2005 9:17 am
(@earlybrass)
Posts: 1
 

At the Westin you'll have easy access to taxi's into Cruz bay, so for your arrival day, I'd say pass on the rental. Maybe a 2 day rental is all you'll need so you can take your time and explore the Northshore beaches and maybe have dinner out in Coral Bay one night. Explore the east end too.

The Westin has a great pool and an awful, man made beach. The natural beaches on the Northshore are postcard material, so don't go by the Westin. You can do a day trip to the Baths from the Westin, but on such a short trip, I'd pass and just enjoy St John. Wander the shops in Mongoose Junction and Warfside Village. Snorkel Hawksnest, Trunk and Cinnamon, plus others once you get the 4WD. I usually stay for 3 weeks and never run out of things to do, so your only problem may be running out of time! Enjoy!

 
Posted : July 26, 2005 11:24 am
(@IslandTimer)
Posts: 1
 

Tmpy, you have an extremely short time on STJ and it will go in a flash. Unless you’re keeping score of all the places you can visit in 3 days, my advice would be forget Virgin Gorda (which deserves its own trip) and stay right where you are. By all means splurge on a good 4WD and explore the island. Maybe do a day sail to some hidden spots. I can’t tell you how many times our first couple of trips we thought we had found the perfect beach, only to discover two more the next day. The Westin is fine but ultimately it’s a hotel and essentially just a clean place to sleep at night.

I have to weigh in as one who tries to get on and off STT as fast as possible. Nothing wrong with it, but cruise ships, crowds, shopping, panhandlers, and night life are not what I go to the islands for. A lot of people disagree with me. If someone in your group needs a shopping fix, STT is very accessible for a day trip.

 
Posted : July 27, 2005 8:50 am
(@scooby)
Posts: 185
Reputable Member
 

tmpy, i can understand that you want to see as much as you can when your there, i am the same way. have you checked out the sailing adventure new horizions? they go to a few different islands including the baths all in one day. and pick you up on st. john. i would do this on sat. then explore st. john on sun. [1 day car rental] then take the ferry over to st. thomas on monday,and rent a car there,[1 day car rental]. and explore and shop til you drop! just an idea. have fun researching! we are going in late february.so i'm doing lots of fun researching myself. thanks everyone for the great info. scooby

 
Posted : July 30, 2005 3:46 pm
(@John From Puyallup)
Posts: 1
 

I'm going to be on St. John from August 13th through the 27th with my wife and my 2 teenagers.

My wife and I have been to the Baths before. We considered going back on this trip so that our kids could see it, but decided that 2 weeks was barely enough time to explore everything that St. John has to offer.

The Baths are beautiful and interesting, but the snorkling is just, "ok." I don't think a side trip to the Baths is worth losing a day on St. John, or St. Thomas. IMHO.

 
Posted : July 30, 2005 6:01 pm
(@bluwater)
Posts: 2026
Noble Member
 

I respectfully disagree with IslandTimer's "summary" of St Thomas. In over 3o years of visits and residency, I've never met a panhandler on STT - that's more of a Jamaican thing, and isn't usually found on STT, as it isn't part of the culture. I'm surprised that anyone has had that experience and dare say it's extremely unusual for STT.

Also, nightlife isn't a big STT thing. STJ (Cruz Bay) has as much nightlife as STT. STT does have more upscale and sophisticated restaurants -and, of course, more restaurants in general...but they aren't "nightlife' themed...just more swank that what you'll find on STJ.

If you stick to Charlotte Amalie, you will find cruise ships and crowds on ship days. However, you'll also find these crowds on STJ because the ships offer excursions over there too, as they do to certain beaches on STT - so you just have to know where to go on either island. If you know which beaches the ships don't excursion to, there are no crowds. On STT I would recommend Lindquist, Platform, Secret Harbor, Neltjberg (Lindquist and Neltjberg have been recently featured in Caribbean Travel and Life as best "Secret Sands"). I think STT has done a better job than STJ of keeping it's best beaches secret.

 
Posted : July 30, 2005 10:54 pm
(@IslandTimer)
Posts: 1
 

As I said, "A lot of people disagree with me." See them both. Decide for yourself. The more people who go to STT means fewer on STJ and that's just fine with me.

 
Posted : July 31, 2005 12:01 pm
(@donnap)
Posts: 36
Eminent Member
 

We have been to st john three times and are planning our fourth trip. I see like everyone else what a short time you have at st john. To me the relaxing and more relaxing is more important than the trip to the baths that we did for the first time on our third trip. There is so much to see and do and filling every day is not the way to enjoy your short length of time. Consider another trip for a longer period of time. I have rented a vehicle every time and would do it again just to see st john. Relax and enjoy.

 
Posted : July 31, 2005 9:04 pm
 Wes
(@wes)
Posts: 167
Estimable Member
 

Good Golly Miss Molly! There shouldn't be a STJ vs. a STT rivalry thing going on here. (Not to mention STX.) It's sort of a different strokes for different folks kinda thing. Depending on how much time you have (and this is important!) Try 'em all! Even the BVIs. They are all different and unique! I spend much of my time on STJ but I love 'em all. The common denominator is they are all Caribbean Islands and english is the common language. (Yes there are various forms of creole spoken here but you will have no problem being understood) There are very few wrong turns. The really important part for us mainlanders is "letting go"! To paraphrase the late John Denver "blow up your TV, throw away your paper, move to the islands, (temporarily) and find you a home!" I think it was Ernest Hemmingway tha said "once you've slept on an island...you'll never be the same!" Have a great trip and find what you are looking for and didn't even know it!

 
Posted : July 31, 2005 10:03 pm
(@Melanie)
Posts: 1
 

Well said Wes!

 
Posted : August 1, 2005 11:41 am
(@spatripper)
Posts: 7
Active Member
 

wes- i really agree with you, but must give credit to john prine, not john denver!

 
Posted : August 1, 2005 9:07 pm
 Tmpy
(@tmpy)
Posts: 20
Eminent Member
Topic starter
 

Let me preface this post by saying I am shocked by the responses to my question. I was only looking for information from seasoned travelers to STJ and STT for my first trip. What I feel I started here was a feud between people who are so knowledgeable about both islands and it got way out of hand.

I value all the opinions of Bluwater, Earlybrass and IslandTimer. I’ve been following your posts on a few boards, however I am intelligent enough to read between the lines and realize that both islands are unique and there is a love of both. I think most people understand that these posts are based on a lot of opinions. I for one try to get all the information I can about various places I plan to travel to and then come to my own conclusions.

After reading tons and tons of information I get a general idea and feel for the place without ever stepping foot on the turf. As an informed traveler I am knowledgeable about options open to me for various circumstances. For example, had I not been reading about my transfers to STJ, I might have just gone with the Westin ferry. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but I have other options based on others experiences. Same goes for burgers lol. After reading restaurant reviews, if we decide we want a burger, off to Skinny Legs we go. Why? Because generally the consensus is Skinny Legs is the place to go for burgers. I value that info because otherwise I might end up at some place where the burgers were overpriced and not what I was looking for. Oh sure there are some negatives to everything and everyplace but you are the only one to decide that since everyone values and sees things differently.

I sincerely hope to see a little of both islands (since my time is so short) and get a feel for the beautiful people, land and culture they both have to offer. I value all your comments and as a neutral party understand all sides of the posts. I think some were taken a little too far and way out of context, but I’m sure no harm was intended.

I look forward to your responses to more of my questions should I decide to ever post again. I’m a little hesitant at this time, but one thing for sure is I’ll be posting a trip report when I return to inform fellow travelers of my experiences.

Regards to all!

 
Posted : August 2, 2005 9:33 am

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