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Hello All,
We will be in SJ next July, and I was wondering where to sample some of the local food? Also is there some where you can buy fresh fish from local fisherman, and what fish should we try or stay away from.
Thank You
Island man from Bethlehem, PA.
The local fishermen are usually out in Smith Bay selling there frsh catch of the day, that's my neck of the woods I'm sure that others will chime in when you let us know the area that you will be staying. They sell alot of salted fish in the local grocery store but have yet to try it, kind of repels me that it's not refridgerated. The local markets keep their fresh fish on ice. Another great option would to go deep sea fishing on one of the local fish boats and catch your own.
IAMolly: The way things were preserved prior to refrigeration is by salting. Salt fish is salted, preserved cod. It is an acquired taste, I think. You have to rinse and soak the fish to get rid of the salt before you cook it, usually with onions and green peppers. Oh, yum. Now you have gone and made me hungry. Try some out to see if you like it. Cuzzin's has it on Friday, usually.(tu)
If SJ is St. John, then...
For me, some West Indian cuisine is "love at first bite" and some is an acquired taste. I encourage you to explore the little bits of West Indian cuisine that remain.
If Patrick's is still there (and you're feeling brave 🙂 try a "fish and provision" lunch in Cruz Bay (in a parking lot across from the clinic/tourist office). You won't see many continentals eating there and you'll be a bit of an oddity when you order...conversation stopped when we were there 🙂 Last time I ate there it was an interesting mix of fish species, some fresh, some salted, and a mix of starches (ground provisiona). "Ground provisions" has a history that dates back at least as far as the subsistence farming that the enslaved agricultural workers did to survive. The starchy plantain/potato/yam/dasheen/breadfruit portion of the meal was interesting.
Sheila's Pot in Cruz Bay as well also has some West Indian flavor, as does Hercules' Pate Delight (on the nameless street that runs from N Shore Rd to Centerline).
I hope Sogo's gets back some of their West Indian flavor. I think they cater to continental tastes now in an attempt to survive. It used to be that "ole wife and fungi" wasn't that hard to find. I see very few queen triggers when I dive now, so maybe the population of ole wife is the reason it is so hard to find compared to the early 80s when I first visited St. John.
There's a place in Pastory Gardens that I've never managed to find open (does anyone know if it is open?)
Miss Lucy's on Salt Pond Road (opposite end of the island from Cruz Bay) is high-end and delicious West Indian cuisine. There's fancy crab meat in the callaloo soup.
And, though a limited selection, there's always Vie's Snack Shack -- a bit east of Haulover Bay if I recall correctly -- lets you dine with a St. John legend (and gives you a chance to defend your food from the cats and chickens 🙂
10 days until we leave for St. John! I'm smacking my lips in anticipation...mahi sandwich at the Beach Bar, ribs at Joe's, pate, fish and provision, garlic chicken at Vie's, mmmmm.....
Islandman - On St. John you can sometimes find fishermen selling their catch by the old car barge area in Cruz Bay. In Coral Bay there are a couple spots too where fishermen are sometimes set up. Not sure there is a regular time/day. Look for guys with scales and cooler selling off their boats or from the back of their trucks. Also sometimes the fishing charters will sell road side or dock side if they have more than they were able to sell to restaurants - so you could contact some of the charters. PS: IAMolly's suggestion of Smith Bay is on St. Thomas.
txjim - great suggestions for dining spots for sampling some local dishes on St. John. Definitely got hungry reading your write up... your mention of crab now has me thinking about some crab and rice.
IAMolly - agree with East Ender that saltfish has an acquired taste but it sure is yummy when cooked up right. If you like pates you might start out with trying a salt fish pate.
--Islander