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Yesterday, I hiked to what I call the baths on St. Croix (actually an unnamed geologic feature). They’re on the deserted far northwest coast right near the border of estates Annaly and Spring Garden in Maroon Ridge. They’re longer than I’d anticipated, running perhaps a quarter mile along the coast. Hundreds of boulders have fallen down the rocky sea cliffs and are piled thick on top of one another in places. About a dozen are the size of houses. You have to climb up 20 or 30 feet in some places to get over them. In at least two places, you can go under boulders that have formed tunnels as you make your way through. You emerge from relative darkness into the sunlight and look up and see towering green mountains, rocky sea cliffs, and boulders that look like they’re about to fall on you.
Just to the east of the baths are a dozen turquoise sea pools that have very brilliant yellow, short, stubby organisms growing on the bottom and sides. They very much appear to be emitting light. You almost have to squint to look into some of the pools, they are so thick with this shiny yellow growth. Is this bioluminescence or fluorescence? I’d appreciate feedback. A couple of the pools are deep enough to swim in. There are many other pools of various shapes and sizes, including perhaps two dozen you can swim in. Caution: some of the pools have a large hole in the bottom that rapidly drains water back into the sea following a wave. You don’t want to fall through and get whisked away to Puerto Rico.
I’d encourage eco-tourists who are fairly strong and healthy to explore this area. Just go west from Annaly Bay and move slowly and deliberately. The best time to go is on a day when the trade winds and waves are down and you can pretty easily walk and climb past the pools. If you go farther west, you might find the slave hideout cave in Spring Garden (reportedly just east of Maroon Hole). Historical accounts mention additional caves. (There’s one on the north side of Ham Bluff below the lighthouse.) I’d be extremely surprised if you encounter even one other hiker. The area is virtually unknown and very rarely seen except from a distance: no one ever seems to talk about it, and I didn’t see a single piece of litter in the two hours I roamed around. It’s like traveling to a mysterious, uninhabited island.
Thank you Former Ohioguy,
I always enjoy your reports! Can't help with identifing the yellow marine animals you saw :(. I am familiar with bioluminescence at night as being like little stars floating in the water. Let us know what they are if you find out.
--Islander
FOG
I wish you would take pictures of some of the places you explore on St. Croix and post them! Couch potatos like me will never see them up close and I'd love to see these parts of the island.
Ditto what Paula said. I love taking trips like this vicariously and would love to see photos!
I’ll go back soon and take some pictures and try to upload them. I’m a real technophobe. I think a friend will have to help.
You can see some of the baths yourself from a distance. Just take a pair of binoculars to a place like Cane Bay Beach. You’ll see some of the larger boulders on the shore and the crumbling sea cliffs above. A good vantage point is in Estate La Vallee off the North Shore Road on top of the low, barren hill by the yellow school building (look for the dirt Jeep road on the east side of the hill). You can see some of the coral rock shore that’s associated with the pools. You get a slight view at the northern projection of the Western Scenic Road in Sweet Bottom. You can also go up to the lighthouse (a short 15- to 20-minute hike) on Ham Bluff for a slight view.
where do you drive in from and park, we live on west end.
kmb - these are commonly known on STX as "the tide pools". You can drive much of the way to them if you have a jeep. There is also a hiking train from Carambola Beach Resort. You do need to be in good shape and agile to make the hike, as you are in the woods for part and either walking along or through a stream for a while or sliding down a steep, grassy slope. Once you reach the tide pools, you have to climb over some rocks or work through some water and around an outcropping to get to the next section. Some people dive from the cliff walls into the deeper tide pools.
What ever happened to FOG?????
Yeah, I've wondered what happened to him for the last year! Does anyone know him personally? Of all people I thought he'd be the type to stay on the island since he seemed to really enjoy getting out and exploring it. If anyone knows him tell him to come back and let us know what he's been up to.
we will be staying at cane bay this summer, would love to see the baths on st. croix. what is the easiest way to get there, is it safe? heard about them on my previous trip, but could not get direction on how to get there.
It's safe as long as you are reasonably fit and up for a hike with a little climbing involved. Use caution if you decide to cliff dive into the tide pools. The trail to them from Carambola isn't really marked because they don't like people accessing the trail from by crossing their property... but that's how to get there, so people do.
When you enter the resort by passing the guard gate, go straight across the lawn towards the rain forest rather than turning right with the road down towards the check-in area and hotel room buildings. When you go straight, the hillside will slope down into a bit of a gully and then up towards the woods/brush. There is a trail that begins through the woods. The last time I went on this hike, I think there were two or three entrance trails, but they all merged a little way in. Then you follow the trail. I think it was probably 2 miles to the tide pools, but sometimes it seems longer than it is when you are hiking in the woods. About 2/3 of the way there, the trail emerges on the north edge of the woods and you cross a grass field. From there you can either slide down the grass hill or bear to the left and walk along a stream bed trail that is a more gradual way down the slope. The stream goes inland and then curves to the west and back to the north again in a U turn and meets up with the trail that goes down the steep grass hillside. A little more walking through grass and a little more of a trail through some brush and you will reach a cut that goes to the water and the tide pools.
It's been a year since I was there... but I think I'm remembering most of the main changes of direction. If you aren't too directionally challenged, you shouldn't get hopelessly lost.
There is also a dirt road that can sometimes be driven by a 4WD Jeep, but at other times it's washed out from storms.
Yeah, I miss him too!!! He disappeared from the boards about a year ago, if memory serves.
Tan Tan Tours does excursions to places on STX that most of us will never get to otherwise, including the Anally Tidal Pools (baths). My "adventure" on my next trip is to take this excursion. Wave Philips is the owner and he is a great guy (great dog too). I have his card somewhere, but can't lay my hands on it at the moment (better find it, huh?).
33 days to paradise (but who's counting)!!! Sadly, this trip I will pass like ships in the night with Sandcrab and Calypso Katie-they arrive just as I depart.
Please pass on the information about Tan Tours as soon as you get it. We are going in April and this sounds like something we would like to do.
Thanks a lot!!
Denise
Hey Joanne!
I'd appreciate the info on Tan Tan tours,too. We've heard it's a good one to take and we want to do it in April. 33 days for you--yea! ( You try to get that dressing recipe from The Bombay Club and in April I will,too 🙂 )
Paula
FormerOhioGuy,
When you're hiking do you ever come across any old US Geodetic Survey markers? When I was on STX in March 2005, I hiked up to the top of the hill across the road from Grassy Point and saw a brass medallion about 3" in diameter set on a blob of concrete on top of a rock. A recent brush fire made the hike scratch-free but it was still a heart thumper. Looking up goverment sites, my guess is that the marker is at least 50 years old.
Also, how bag are the bugs on the Hams Bluff end? I've only done East End hikes( Jack & Isaac's Bay, etc.)
Ted
I'm having trouble locating his card, but I'll give it one more shot and then call my "sources" on STX. I've tried to talk him into a web site, but I guess he gets enough business without one.
Tan Tan Tours
Contact: Wave Phillip, Owner
Tel: 340-473-6446
If you are looking for an island-style adventure, then climb in one of Wave's open air jeeps and get ready to see parts of St. Croix only accesible with four wheel drive. These one of a kind jeep tours take you off the beaten path to discover tide pools, breathtaking views, hidden sugar plantation ruins and much more! With your experienced guide at the wheel, you can let go of your worries as you take in the island's beauty on this once in a lifetime tour. With each journey you get full cultural and historical backgrounds of each location. Don't forget to bring your bathing suit, sunscreen, aqua socks, a hat, drinks, and your camera!
Found this on the gotostcroix.com website
Thank you neisy! Gee, it sounds like it's more than just a ride around the island if they suggest you bring bathing suit,etc.
Thanks Neisy - I'm still searching for his card and I've sent an e-mail to friends in STX to send me the info, but you beat me to it. I'll post a report in late March, as we are definitely doing this.
