REEF BAY HIKE

Early up in the morning, which for us on vacation means before 7.30. Want to be the first at the National Visitor Centre to be sure that we can participate in the Ref Bay hike. But at first breakfast. A new way for us to have it, just go to the kitchen room near the pool, take what you want, and find a place at one of the terraces. ”Good morning, Lauren, early up and already working?” Yes, Lauren doesn’t sleep long in the morning. Different things to choose among, see a guest take something in vivid colours, like cornflakes, never seen such stuff before, should I try? No! Looks disagreeable. But here is varies sort of bread to toast and eggs and juice too. Fine I take that. See some muffins. Look so good, but normally don’t eat cake in the mornings. OK. I take one. Cannot resist. Have our breakfast, what about the muffin now? No. Want to save it to later, take it in a napkin and go. Hopefully nobody sees it! Make some sandwiches and off we go. Come to the National Visitor Centre, find a place to park, and now it’s exciting to see if there is place for us. The woman at NVC is very kind, we have to wait, but thinks it will be possible, number two on the waiting list. Fine. Can we pay for the trip now? No, nothing to pay here, only pay for the taxi and the boat back! See that people are having signs, so that they can park in NVC’s parking place. Let’s see if we can get a sign too. We can. OK. It’s the first step. Now some taxis are arriving. It’s a little confusing, are not really sure what to do. Go up, we have to see. Just before starting somebody calls our surname. What now? Will they throw us out? No. It seems as if they just want to be sure that we were there. Good. The taxis are filled up, a big group, and soon the first where are you from question comes. Like that people are interested. Not sure that the same will happen in Denmark. But don’t know if people perhaps just are more open-minded on vacation participating in the same event, or it’s the American way? Now we are at the starting point, and after a short introduction from the guide everybody follows her.

The guide, cannot remember her name, but a local, is very knowledgeable. So interesting to hear her tell about what you see and so many things to see, spiders, trees, plants. Look here! A wild pineapple! Guide tells that they were used as a hedgerow! If there is many on a place, people have had animals or farming there.

In her bag she also brings different leaves and fruits, which you cannot see at this time, just to show us what she is talking about. So fine. Like her way to do it. Has her heart in the work. Difficult for me to hear what she says - bad hearing and at the same time another language. Have to be near her, try not to push other people too much. Not so easy, hb doesn’t follow me, more polite! Lunch at the petroglyphs. Fascinating to sit here where Indians have been for many years ago. And how did they make the petroglyphs? And does the drawings have a special meaning? Wish that it was possible to go back in time, just to see.

Enjoy having our sandwiches here, and the muffin is just delicious, thank you Lauren! After the lunch the party is spread, don’t know why. Good for me, have the guide nearly for my self, do not need to push anyone, can ask her a lot of questions. Also tells her about the missing guide in Annaberg. The guide was a little delayed, she says. OK. Island time. Means that a delay can be more than an hour! See a ruin, guide tells that her family have lived there. Interesting. Now the old sugar factory. Like Annaberg, well kept. Beautiful surroundings. Now the entire group are joint on the beach. The boat to Cruz Bay is laying some distance from the beach. What do you want? Swim to the boat and have the luggage with the dinghy or go with the dinghy yourselves? Would like to swim, but it’s a long way, afraid that they have to wait for me. No, hb says, you can do it. OK. No problem, I’m sitting in the boat before the last part of the group arrive. Proud of my self. I made it! On the boat people socialize, some more where are you from questions. Of course people also tell me where they are from, but I don’t comment. Why? Embarrassing to admit, but don’t know so much about the different states and cities in USA. Know many of the names, but cannot describe them and are not able to tell where they are situated. Have a weak point about that. Will look in an atlas coming home. But have also found out that some Americans don’t know so much about Denmark neither. Hb and I still are amused by a conversation, we had:

“Where are you from”
“Denmark”
“Denmark is such a beautiful country, I have never been there but have seen pictures”
“Yes, it’s nice in Denmark”
“Your mountains are beautiful”
“Sorry, but we have no mountains in Denmark, it’s a flat land”
“Oh, it is? Perhaps it’s Switzerland, I’m thinking of”
“Yes, it could be Switzerland, it’s a very beautiful country with mountains”
“We have been in Europe, we tried to see so many countries as possible”
“OK”
“Which language are you talking in Denmark”
“Danish”
“Oh, you have your own language?”
“Yes “

Of course we know that Denmark is an insignificant little country, but still funny to realize that.

Now in Cruz Bay. Such a nice trip it has been. Do we pay tip to the guide or not? Always a problem for us. Want to do the right. Seems as if other don’t pay tip, OK, we go. Later I say: sometimes we pay tip even though we haven’t been quit satisfied, just because other do, but no tip to a guide, we have been satisfied with. This tipping system is just crazy! As regards to NVC /the National Park/the guides: We think they do a good job. The ruins are well kept, there is not much trash to see around in the park, and you can have a lot of free information. And so many different trails to try, something for every taste. And all the people we have met from NVC have been kind and very helpful. Must be good for the tourism to have such a centre!

Back in E.L., pick up some ice in the kitchen for our GTI. Talk with Lauren. Interesting that the Estate is built in old Danish ruins. Lauren’s parents in law have bought the place from Rockefeller, who they knew, and now Lauren and her hb are living there. Also talks about the Texaco Station, which they have started to remove. Lauren tells that her parents in law have had the station. Will the station be built in another place? No, Lauren says, and it might give problems with a station less on STJ. Have our drink inside, it’s just too hot to sit on the veranda. Where to dine tonight? Asolare is beside and it seems to be popular, many cars there. No, we want to walk a little around in Cruz Bay before deciding. Find La Tapa - is on my list. Again surprised. Is this place really one of the top restaurants forum members have told about? It doesn’t appear like that. And nearly empty. Prefer to have people around us in a restaurant, we find another place. What about Fish Trap? OK. Looks fine. Many people. I have Sautéed Salmon, hb Seefood “Alfredo”. Salmon good, but hb’s “Alfredo” looks much more interesting. Can I taste it? Yes, just take! So delicious, can I taste some more? Envious on hb’s choice. Home again after another interesting day with new experiences. Tomorrow we will go to Honeymoon beach and perhaps Salomon too.

HONEYMOON BEACH, SALOMON BEACH

Today is our last full day on STJ. Want to relax on the beach. Make some sandwiches, pack our stuff and off we go. Have decided to go to Honeymoon beach using the shorter trail from Caneel instead of the longer Lind Point trail from Cruz Bay. A woman, we met on the Reef Bay hike, has recommended that. Admire Caneel again, such a nice place. Are stopped near the entrance. Can it be a problem to park here, going to Honeymoon? No, we were just told the best place to park. So fine. The trail not so difficult. Now we are here, go down to the beach. Look, look, it cannot be true. Another beautiful beach! So impressing. Not very many people here. A big party with a dinghy. Two women on seashore. Talk with them and having the question. ut a different answer. “How interesting you are from Denmark, my grandfather is Danish! He is from …”, she says a name, I cannot recognise, says it again slowly. Oh, now I know, pronounce the name in Danish. The women laugh. Funny for her to hear the name in Danish. “The family were also living in another town…, Do you know that too?” Yes, it’s nearby where we live. The woman is so amused, call for some younger women: “Come and hear this Danish girl say the name of grandfather’s town!” And there I stood, feeling a little foolish, have to pronounce two names in Danish again and again. Like a dog, who has to show its tricks. But nice people!

It’s a little windy on Honeymoon. Hb suggests we try Salomon first. OK. Let’s do that. Discuss if we should crawl over the cliffs. Salomon beach should be nearby. I’m not so happy with that. Too chancy. We take the trail instead. Much longer way. Know that Salomon is mentioned as an unofficial nudist beach. Tell hb that if there aren’t people on the beach, or they are naked, I will have a swim without cloth on. Just love that. In Denmark we have some beaches with plenty of room, people are not close to each other. Sometimes you can see naked people there, and it has happened that we also take a swim without cloth. Not going around naked, just the swim. A special nice feeling. But in Denmark it’s also common that some of the women both young and old are sunbathing topless. Haven’t seen that in VI. Another culture! Now we reach Salomon Beach - none naked and not alone here. So no nudist swimming for me! And what about the beach. I don’t really know what to say. Perhaps the prettiest we have seen on STJ!! Just love it. The palms close to the beach, the white sand, the blue water, the flowers. Beyond description.

What about snorkelling? Ok, let’s see! Let’s snorkel to Honeymoon, should be nice. Indeed it is. Nearly at the height of Water Lemon. Such a pretty reef, not so big fish as we have seen before, but plenty of them. Like to see when the fish come in droves.

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Very satisfied with our experience, back to the Neat Sheet, enjoy our lunch (have to confess that I repeated my bad behaviour from yesterday- couldn’t resist to take a muffin from the breakfast table with me, another type, very delicious too). Now relaxation! But we also have to try Honeymoon. OK. Leave Salomon, never forget this beach. A new snorkel trip at Honeymoon. The people with the dinghy told that they have seen both stingrays and turtles. No success for us. But just to swim is also a delight. Hb! I want a picture of us from Honeymoon, the last picture from a beach on STJ! OK. What about here hb, it’s a nice background! Hb finds a place to settle his camera, holds his arm around me - straighten the hair, smile to the camera, suck in the stomach - has to bee a pretty picture, title: Honeymooners on Honeymoon Beach. Nothing happens. Try again. Nothing happens. What’s wrong? Empty battery, have only that! So no picture of honeymooners on Honeymoon beach. Urrgh! Let’s go back to our jeep. Do you think we can have a smoothie in Caneel? Let’s try. But perhaps we are not nice enough to Caneel coming from a beach with wet hair, feet filled with sand and very sweaty? Other people here look so nice. Nobody knows us, forget it, we are sitting outside. Enjoy the smoothie and go home. Having a bath and our GTI. What now? Let’s go to Cruz Bay and look. Today there are a lot of people in La Tapa. Why today and not yesterday? More people on Fridays? Don’t know. Ask for a table, want to sit on the upper floor. Cannot- it’s not La Tapa. OK. Having another table very near the street. Do you want wine? No a Heineken as usually. Better in the heat. Have the beer. Ask for a glass, hello, it’s a top restaurant, not Woody’s, cannot looks wrong to use a glass here! Hb orders Filet Mignon for him, duck breast with confit legs for me - a forum member’s recommendation, on my list. This time it’s hb, who envies me. My food is just delicious. The best I have had for a long time. Hb’s filet is good, he says, but he has tasted it better. Give him some of my duck breast. Shall we go to Woody’s and have a last beer there? But both of us are a little tired now, have to go up early tomorrow and pack, so no. Want to have visited Woody’s more times, but so much else to see and try on STJ.

TRAVELLING TO STX, VILLA MARGERITA

Wake up in the morning, cannot believe that it’s our last day on STJ, that we have been here in 10 days. So fast the time has run. And even though we have experienced so much, there is a lot more we would have liked to try. But we have to pack now. Have an agreement with Kurt from L & L to deliver the car near the ferry just before 10. What about cleaning the jeep? A sign in the jeep tells that you have to pay extra, if there is sand in it. But it’s impossible to avoid, and we don’t have a vacuum cleaner. They cannot mean that! No problem with L & L. In time and no payment for the sand! So now we are on travel again. Have been discussing what to do today. Cape Air has changed the schedule, a later flight, which means that we have to stay for a very long time in the airport. Hate that! But perhaps we could stay longer on STJ? Not so easy with our entire luggage. But perhaps possible to have our luggage kept in a taxi on STT, so we can go around and see some more? Have read in the forum that some taxi drivers offer that. Let’s see what happens. Yesterday hb saw that there is a ferry to CA too. Why don’t we take this ferry instead of the one to Reed Hook? Cost some few dollars more, but we see something else, and a shorter taxi drive to the airport. A good idea, haven’t thought of that, have read in the forum that the CA ferry doesn’t sail, but perhaps started again? Asked Lauren. She wasn’t sure. Found out in the morning that the ferry sails again, bought tickets to 11.15 AM. Deliver the heavy luggage to a porter, and now we have about an hour more on STJ. So fine! Enjoy just sitting on a step looking at people around us, some arriving with the ferry,

Was in love with STJ before seeing the island and still is. Hasn’t disappointed in any way. Now the ferry comes. Farewell STJ.

A nice trip to CA. Fine to try that too. Arriving. Do you want a taxi to the airport? Yes. Do you want me to keep your luggage until later? Yes, thank you. Pay the taxi driver, get his card, get instructions where to come and at what time. So easy. OK. Let’s go to the main street, hb want to buy a new battery, will not risk the same again as yesterday. Buy the battery. Admire once more the beautiful shops. Cannot understand that all of them can have an income. So many shops and so few
customers. Understandably that they need to have people catching you on the street. But sometimes
irritating if they are too aggressive. Look, see all the bottles in this store, what a selection!

It’s also one of these A.H. Riise stores, you can see on STT. Funny to know that he was a Danish pharmacist, who became very, very rich because he found out to make Bay Rum- aftershave and hair conditioner, not something to drink- of the Bay Rum tree at STJ. Time for lunch. Shall we go to the Greenhouse, where the food was so good last time? No, let’s try something else. Here we can sit outside, a nice place. Order cokes and salad. But what now? Suddenly the heaven opens the floodgates. We have to run into the bar. Do not like to be there. A man just beside us is smoking. Hate that, especially when dining. Please stop smoking before our food comes, I think. He can read my thoughts, stops smoking. But still not the same to sit in a bar with smoke in the air and have your food. Should have taken the Greenhouse. Now it’s time to go to the Taxi. He isn’t there yet, but here he comes. Wait a little for other people, now they are here, off we go to the airport. Do we have to wait and stay in rows this time? No, everything is very easy with Cape Air and no problem in security. It’s a young fair-haired woman, who is the pilot. The landing is perfect! Here we are STX! Anxious to see how this island will be. Have read that the Crucians can be more reserved than people on STT and STJ. Not so friendly. Let’s see before judging. Have just decided to hire a car in the airport. The guesthouse, where we shall stay is not in Christiansted, and we want to go to a Sunday church service tomorrow. Like to see different religious ceremonies, when we are out travelling. Doesn’t matter if it’s Buddhist, Hindu, Muslim or another religion, always so interesting. And a woman I know from a course has recommended the service in the church on the main street in Christiansted. So let’s go and see, if we can get a good offer renting a car. But so annoying, ask in 3 different agencies. Same answer. No cars available at all. Why didn’t I book from home! But now we have to find a taxi. Nobody to see near us. Look! A group of men in flowered shirts chatting together. Could be taxi drivers. Can we have a taxi to Villa Margerita? Yes, an elderly man gets up. Can see, he doesn’t know where it is. Give him our driving instructions, he gives them to another man and a bigger discussion starts in the group. Cannot understand a word. But now it seems, as if our man knows, where to drive. So off we go. He must have misunderstood something. It’s obviously that he isn’t sure where to drive. Now he stops and says, it must be here! I look around, it’s a gravel road and only a few houses to see, could be the place, but confused, say to him, look at the picture, the sea should be close to, and it isn’t here, cannot be right. Hb takes the instructions and together they find the right way. Coming to the Villa. Pay the taxi driver- a little expensive to have a taxi here- say nothing, but the driver says, “it’s much cheaper to rent a car”. OK, perhaps they enjoy relaxing instead of driving? The door to the Villa is closed and nobody to see. What now? I have sent an email about our arriving time. But shortly after Adele, the hostess comes and welcomes us. Here is your room. Oh, such a nice room, we like it at once. Clean and light and with a fantastic view to the sea.

Nice kitchen, nice bathroom too. And the sound of the waves. Love that. It’s a parrot room. Parrots everywhere, hanging down from the ceiling, paintings on the wall, on the place mates etc. Didn’t count how many there were, but many. Think I will dream about parrots tonight. Adele comes. Would you like a drink? My polite hb says no, I say yes, thank you. Have read in a review about the Villa that Adele makes wonderful drinks. Tell hb about it in Danish. OK. Both of us want a drink. Get the drink. Let’s go out on the veranda and enjoy the drink, it’s nearly sunset. We do. Take a nip of the drink, just delicious. Place the glass on the rail, it’s windy and a leaf from a palm hid the glass, fell down on the terrace underneath. No! No! Embarrassed and at the same time so annoyed not having the drink. Go down to find Adele to confess. Doesn’t matter, I will clean. Do you want another drink? My spirits rise at once. Yes, thank you. What a sweet person! Admire the sunset.

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Have told Adele about our problem with renting a car. OK. She will try to help us tomorrow morning, everything is closed now. Need a swim in the pool even though it’s being dark now. So good for the back.
No GTI tonight. Make some toast and have some wine. Now it will be nice to go to bed enjoying the sound from the sea.

CHRISTIANSTED

Early up. Still want to see if it’s possible to reach the church service. Adele comes with her cell phone. Has called a rental firm and they could help us with a car. Take my phone and call them, she says, they need some information! Thank you, we do. They will pick us up about nine and take us to the office. Fine! A woman picks us up. Do you know when there is service in the church? No, she doesn’t know. Perhaps about 9 AM. The taxi driver last night said 7 AM. Try to ask in our office! OK. Sign the contract. Cheaper to rent a car here than on STT. A woman on the office means that the service is 11 AM. Fine, we can reach it. How to find Christiansted? Hb gives me different maps. You have to help, look at the map, I cannot navigate on an island, I don’t know. OK. I will try. But it’s common knowledge that something is missing in my brain. I cannot find my way, which sometimes results in funny and not so funny episodes. It helps with a map. But if the map turns so, that you have to go to the right, but the map shows the road to the left, it’s a problem for me. Sometimes I turn the map upside down so it’s easier to see if we shall go to the right or to the left, but then it’s very difficult to read the names on the map. Hb shakes his head at me, you are not a stupid woman, it cannot be so difficult. But it is! And it shows up that the road system is the same on STX as in STT. Numbers, only very few signs with names. And of course we drive the wrong way. “Don’t’ drive so fast hb! I cannot follow on the map”. “I need to follow the traffic, have to drive in the same speed”. OK. Finally we find Christiansted and a place to park. Hurry up, we can still be in time. Here is the church I think.

But we are too late, people are going out from the church and among them the Danish woman, who has told me about the service. She is visiting STX again together with her family. So funny to meet here. But I’m not satisfied with my self. If you want to travel for yourselves instead of taking a planned tour, you have to do you homework properly. And I haven’t done that as regards this occasion. Have used too much time concentrating about STJ. OK, what to do now! Let’s see something more in Christiansted. Like the town. Cannot be compared with Charlotte Amalie.
Much more Danish looking, not so fancy stores as far we can see, many are closed today. But really cosy. Here the old scale house where Peter von Scholten, the Danish governor, who emancipated the slaves, started his career. Read some of the explanation you can see on the place. OK. Let’s go and see if we can visit the fort. We can.

In front of the fort there is an old sentry similar to those, who stand in front of our queen’s castle in Copenhagen, and where the royal bodyguard, a guardsman is posted. And of course I have to try to stay in the house like one of the guards. Don’t smile, stand straight up!

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Go around in the fort. See the rooms. See where the weapons were kept. How small the rooms are.
Look at the gunners. Used to frighten the pirates, have never been involved in any fight. It’s so peaceful to go around here, but the pictures and the description which also can be seen, tell another story. Not always so proud of the Danish!

Go a little more around in the town looking at the buildings and the Danish name of the streets. Should we try if we can find the house, where our famous artist Victor Borge has lived every summer, until “Hugo” came and spoiled the house. Yes! Don’t find it at once. Placed in “Bjerge Gade” which means hill street. So we have to go up, and it’s very hot. Must be this one!

The next step is to see the Danish churchyard. Have to ask to find the way. Go around and read many Danish names, like on STT. And many died very young! It’s very, very hot now, and some not so nice persons are coming, feel they are looking after us. We are tired of walking around, very thirsty and hungry. Let’s go down to the sea and see, what we can find. OK. This place, Rum Runners, looks nice and there is music. Let’s have a table here. What do you want to drink? Oh, hb I’m in the same condition as the day to the carnival. You know, what can help me! Hb knows, and I get my painkiller. So good! Then fish and chips for hb and a green salad for me. The salad is with a sort of blue cheese, spiced walnuts and sweet balsamic and vinaigrette. Think it’s the best salad I have tasted ever. So delicious. Regrettably I cannot remember the name, and I’m annoyed that I did not ask for the recipe. On the other side I’m not quit sure, if it could be the painkiller, which have influenced my opinion! On our way from the restaurant we see a sign with Big Beard’s adventure tours. We want of course to go to Buck Island, but you cannot come there on your own, you have to take an arranged tour. Let’s go in and see what they have to offer. Have read that their sailboat is the only boat on STX with glass bottom. Sounds exciting to be able to see through the bottom. Only one person in the store and she is speaking in telephone, could hear it was about the same thing- a trip to the island- and that it’s difficult to find the place, it seems to be a bigger party. Finally she is ready for us. Half day or full day? Half day cost 60 dollars p.p, full day 90 dollars p.p. and lunch is included. Very cheap compared to our NH II trip, but also space for 37 persons on the boat and a shorter distance. We take the full day. Luckily there are 2 places free tomorrow. Fine. We pay. Go shopping. STX have both a very big K Mart and a very big shopping center, Sunny Isle. But no fresh meat or vegetables to buy today, Sunday. Asks a man where to go. Go to Plaza Extra. We do. Fine, another big market and with fresh food. While trying to find the different shopping places we see a bigger part of the island than expected. Still not so easy to find the right way! Home again, a swim in the pool and ready for GTI, dinner, beer and wine. So much we already have seen here, and tomorrow we go snorkelling!

- to be continued