Cold frosty morn in north central Florida, compliments of a cold front that dipped low this weekend. A bright sun is burning the frost off the St. Augustine and causing wisps of mist to rise off the pool. Peeping through tightly closed shutters to see just how cold it is by the thermometer and see cardinals and a couple of blue jays are arguing over bird feeder rights. Checking thermometer again! 37F? Pour another cup of coffee and let my mind wander back to early October and a place I call Kokomo.

Aruba, Jamaica, I wanta take ya.
Bermuda, Bahama, c’mon pretty mama
Off the Florida Keys
There’s a place called Kohomo
(with apologies to the Beach Boys)

This trip started in my mind shortly after being to St Croix in Feb of this year. Enjoyed St. Croix but was intrigued by a place that was even more laid back. Looked at my schedule, figured could work in a week away in either August or October. My best friend (who is also my wife) of many years suggested that October might be cooler and more storm free, both in Florida and on St. John (probably should have mentioned STJ earlier as the designation). So, we cashed in frequent flyer miles, searched the web for a very private one-bedroom cottage (villa?), found one that looked perfect. And……..it was available the first week in Oct. As everyone else does, we faithfully checked this site regularly for valuable information on the flora, fauna, roads, restaurants, etc. on St. John. Even found an overhead map of St John and were able to pinpoint where we were staying. Bought a snorkel and a mask and learned to use them and get comfortable breathing under water in the pool. The lazy days of summer finally gave way to the lengthening shadows of fall. The University of Florida Gator football team was winning, life was good. And, Oct 1 was slowly getting closer.

Finally, the end of Sep comes and goes and finds our bags packed, unpacked, repacked with fewer clothes. Cats (2 quarrelsome brothers) are dropped off to be boarded. Oct 1 begins for us at 4:30 in the morning since we have a 6:30 flight to Atlanta.

Flight to Atlanta uneventfully and on time as was the flight from Atlanta to STT. Arrived in STT around 1:30. Headed to the baggage carousal, stopped and had a complimentary glass of rum punch for which I thanked the lady, and was rewarded with a refill. Checked baggage arrived, which is always a good sign. Boarded the van to Red Hook ferry. Was not too impressed with the scenery along the way. Van was full of others going to St John, some first timers like ourselfs, others returnees. Wasn’t too sure where the ferry ticket office was but followed the others. Ferry arrived, discharged its passengers and we boarded. Headed for seats on the upper deck. Humidity and heat was a bit more than we expected but once under way, the breeze was cooling. Debarked in Cruz Bay. Had no idea where the agency was that we had rented a jeep from. I actually asked directions from a policeman. Turned out it was only a block away. Our jeep, a white one, was parked out front of Conrad Sutton’s. The lady inside quickly got our paper work done, checked out the jeep for us, told us to drive on the left, and pointed out the road to Corel Bay.

Now we had read reviews here of the roads in St John. Both of us had grown up in WV and thought we knew twisty, curvy roads. Let me say, these roads are truly curvy, and seem even more so when you are trying to remember to stay on the left. I noticed that even the cattle that seem to wander along the road from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay walk on the left. The goats, however, either don’t know or don’t care, or just being goats go where every they please which is often in the middle of the road in a blind turn. Kept going up and up some more. Hit the top of the crest of Bordeaux Mountain and saw what we were to discover was Coral Bay laid out below and the British Virgins scattered in the distance. My wife was saying ‘look at this, look at that’. No thank you! Going downhill is no easier than going uphill. Never know if the next turn will be full of goats.

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View from Bordeaux Mountain

We soon reached Coral Bay, passed through it, turned around and came back. Not a large town by any means. Found the Movian Church and called Oliver. We had rented the Sea Spirit, a villa that is owned and managed by Terry Witham. Terry also works, may be the chef, not sure, at Miss Lucy’s. Although we never met her, we communicated extensively by e-mail and found her to be a very warm and nice lady that was interested in our sojourn in St John being the best it could be. Since Miss Lucy’s was closed, Terry was off-island. However, she had said to call Oliver, a friend of hers. Oliver was a pure delight. He met us in just a few minutes after we called him and we proceeded to follow him on Rt 107 southeast along the coast from Corel Bay. We followed quite a ways on a decent two-lane paved road when all of a sudden he turned onto a single track dirt road. We bumped alone this for some ways with turns onto even smaller dirt tracks. Passed a few houses but it was all mostly part of the National Park. Finally, turned one last time and arrived at Sea Spirit. What seemed like endless dirt roads were only about 1/2 mile.

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Coral Bay traffic on a Sunday afternoon

The Sea Spirit is located all alone on a small peninsula that lies between Kiddel Bay and Grootpan Bay. Blue water on 3 sides, National Park behind, not a single solitary house in sight. My wife conceded that I had done all right in picking Sea Spirit from the web. Oliver showed us about, introduced us to the two black cats in residence, told us where their food was. I can’t do justice to the villa but there is an excellent web site at http://www.vi-villas.com/sea-spirit/index.htm with description and pictures. The villa was pretty much equipped with everything that could be needed in the kitchen area. Has a wrap around deck covered on two sides that looks out on the water. One bedroom with queen bed, adjacent bathroom with outdoor shower, enclosed but open to the top. Also has a loft with two single beds. Comfortable living/sitting room with TV. Ceiling fans in both living room and bedroom. Bedroom also has a small air conditioner, works well but is a bit noisy. However, with the shutters open, most times there was a good breeze moving. Other times it did get a bit warm.

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Sea Spirit

Was now around 5 PM so we headed back toward Coral Bay in search of some groceries. There is a small shopping center, on the left, just pass Fries Bay (where Miss Lucy’s is located). The shopping center has a small gourmet grocery that is pretty well stocked. There is also an outdoor bistro restaurant there that turned out to be very good to excellent. However, to my recall, it is closed on Sunday. Got our basic provisions (bagels, cream cheese, sandwich stuff, beer and wine) and returned to Sea Spirit. Almost missed the turnoff and the branching dirt roads in the dark but eventually made it to what would be home for the week.

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Looking out thru the shutters. Guard cat on duty.

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View to our left

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View to our right

There is a place called Kohomo
There is where you want to go
To get away from it all

We will get there fast
And then take it slow
That is where we will go
Way down in Kohomo

Ok, this has gone on long enough. Will post more if there is an interest. I am relatively strong in math and science but not in the written word. Apologies for going on a bit long.