Well, I'm ruined for all other vacations! St. John was wonderful. Too much to tell, but here are a few points.

Snorkelling:
Honeymood Bay and Trunk Bay are the two I made it to. In fact, I went to Trunk Bay twice, since if it gets any better, I don't deserve it. One day I snorkelled Trunk Bay on the right side, where the rocks are relatively shallow. The next day I did the left side, where they are deeper and more dramatic. Especially impressive on the left side was watching the breakers--the water so clear you could look into them.

Food:
I found a restaurant that served local dishes, Cousins on St. Thomas. There I had ox tail, potato stuffing (sweet potato), rice and peas (where peas means beans), and fungi. Rather bland, but that's where the local hot sauce came in handy. Zozo's was great at Cruz Bay. Woody's was surprisingly nice, and very reasonable if you get the burger.

Hotel:
We stayed at Westin, with our employer paying the first few days, and we paid for a few more at the employer's negotiated rate, which was $360 a day, except when one gets the bill, $360 is actually $407 when you add up the "special fees", such as "resort fee", etc. Also, my roommate took one soda from refrigerator (which cost $3 I think) and when we checked out , the single can of soda had become four or five items. It turns out the refrigerator has "sensors", whose purpose, apparently, is to multiply whatever you take. They corrected the bill, so no problem--but it was an interesting bit of technological annoy-ware. BTW, snorkelling at the hotel beach is null. The best deal at the hotel was the breakfast buffet--quite good for $20.

Smells:
That was what I should have asked about before the trip. The first thing I smelled was nothing--the clean air was a treat by itself. On a day trip, our taxi person/guide stopped along the way and picked leaves from various trees and bushes to smell. I appreciated it much. The bay rum tree was best. I smelled various flowers, several of which seemed orchid scented to me. And there were night smells too. On the last day, on the way to the airport on St. Thomas, they had mowed along the road--perhaps the day before--and even that smelled special; not just the hay or green grass smell one would expect, but almost a culinary odor, like spices at at cookout. I wish I had asked ahead of time what other smells to look out for.

Thanks to all for your help and advice before the trip!