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So here is my first try at a trip report. Hope you like it.
This was our 4th trip to STJ, the first two with our two adult children, and future daughter-in-law, and last year just Donna (wife) and me. We wondered how this trip would go, as we were being joined by my sister and brother-in-law, Ellen and Mike, who usually seem to go on those luxury cruises and the like, and STJ is not exactly their usual place. But Ellen was looking for sun, beach and water, and nothing to do so they asked to come along (a first trip for the four of us together). We are all fifty something, grown children-empty nest, and in need of some island downtime.
We all started off very nervous (leaving on January 3) as there was a threatened snow storm here in the Northeast. We had a non-stop from Boston, but Ellen had to change in Atlanta after departing from Hartford. At the last minute on Monday afternoon they decided to get out early and got on stand-by with Delta to Atlanta to be sure to catch their connection on Tuesday to STJ. It worked, and they called from Atlanta to say they made it. We awoke to snow, shoveled 4 inches at 5AM, just in time to catch our ride to the airport. Fortunately as we got closer to the city it turned to rain, the flight was on time, and everything was smooth as silk. Hooray!
We got to STT first, and waited about 40 minutes for Ellen, and grabbed a van/cab to Charlotte Amalie for the STJ ferry. Just missed the 3 PM, so we had time to sit in the sun for the 4, and gave Ellen the time for her first VI fru-fru drink. That and couple of rum punches at the airport for everyone and the trip was off to a great start!
Met at the dock in Cruz Bay by Karen from Windspree, who we knew from our trip two years ago. Got the car, but skipped the groceries because of the new market (Lily’s) in Coral Bay, so figured we would save time. Followed Karen out to Coral Bay (we know the way, but she had to open the house anyway), and got lots of oohs and aahs from Ellen and Mike on the trip down to Coral Bay – I still can’t get enough of that view! We like the quieter, less crowded east side of STJ, and are willing to drive to Cruz Bay as needed. Stayed at Villa Calabreeze this time, a really cute house, two stories, bedrooms up and downstairs, stone; nice size for two couples; also had a loft. This house is down low, just up 106/Bordeaux Mountain Road a few houses from Island Blues. Turns out this is probably not our preferred location – more on that in one of the follow up reports. We did like Treehouse from Windspree, high in Upper Carolina where we were two years ago – but don’t steal my week there next January!
After a quick shop at Lily's Market, dinner at Island Blues the first night (some excellent burgers, salad for Donna – she’s a vegetarian, all nice, good fries). View on the water front, mosquitos only attached me. Then finally to bed, but not a great sleep. Some racket from above, lasting past midnight. Finally figured out that the Penn State/Fla State bowl game was on and being followed enthusiastically! Woken early in the AM by roosters; guess I am not much of a farm boy.
First day was at Salt Pond Bay, an old favorite. Found out one of the snorkels we lent Ellen leaked (they were supposed to check them out before leaving, but….), so we were short one and could only go out 3 at a time. Still saw great stuff – right away in fairly shallow water near the shoreline an octopus in the sand, maybe 18-24 inches across. I think the water distorts my perception of size, though. Also saw an eel, my first one on the south side in 4 years, lots of turtles feeding in the grass, a couple of rays. Good snorkel along the left shore, lots of fish, schools of tangs, parrot fish etc., and then we went for the rocks again after making it there last year. Left Mike behind, but we all made it easily (can we be getting better, or just more confident?). It’s pretty cool around the rocks, just went to the closer ones on the right, leaving the far ones for another year. Lots of coral, plenty of fish. This snorkel can be rough, so watch the waves break on the rocks and use appropriate caution for your skill level (ours is not too good). This day was very calm, so all was in order. Also got in a late hike up Ram’s head (more oohs and aahs – love that hike!), but with no flashlight and the rocky trail decided to forego sunset up there and beat our way hastily back to the beach.
Spent the rest of time doing …. nothing!! Finally quit just before sunset, went back to shower, early drinks and a nice dinner at Shipwreck. Excellent Mahi special for Ellen and me, not sure what everyone else had. Were hoping to catch Chris Carcel and his blues group, but Chris (as I found out) has gone into possible retirement. Good for him! But a little sad for us. Our guitarist son Jesse had sat in with Chris at Shipwreck, Pastory Gardens and Skinny Legs the first two times down to STJ and we were hoping to catch up with him again. Some of the band members were at Shipwreck though, and John is still smokin’ on lead guitar! Chris is scheduled to play in the STJ Blues Festival in March, so maybe he will still be playing sometimes – unfortunately in March we will be stuck in Massachusetts.
More in the next report, maybe a link to some pics? Is this too long? Thanks for the feedback!
Daydeamin again….
Enjoying so far! Keep it coming.... my toes are defrosting as I read.
Pictures please!
Count down 252 until the wedding so that means 255 until we head to STJ. Seems WAYYYYYYYYYYY to far away right now!
mary beth
It’s great to read a trip report from another 50-something where everything wasn’t awesome and to-die-for. Looking forward to the rest.
How was Lily's for basic provisioning? We need a place to stop on the way to our villa next spring (also in Coral Bay but higher up) for stuff to get us though the night and next morning. We'd prefer to skip the crowds (okay, a relative term) at Starfish since our host will be waiting for us.
Islnad timer:
Lily's worked out fine for most of our shopping. Liked the conveninence and now have one less excuse to trek (OK it's not tha far) to Cruz Bay. One night went there to try to get some fresh fish to grill, but no dice. Probably have to go to Starfish or Dolphin in Cruz Bay for that. Ended up at the Aqua Bistro instead -new place right next to Lily's (both practically across from Island Blues); pretty good, a bit pricey, but it was a nice last evening on STJ. More on food in Part 2 of the trip report when I can find the time.
too much daydreamin' Steve
Island Blue is still open, isn't it? I couldn't get to their website, so now I'm wondering. If so, anyone know the URL?
I looked for their website today, too, and couldn't find it. It was driving me nuts cuz I know they used to have one.
Of course Island Blues is open - at least when we were there the first week of the year. Excellent blackened blue burger, good fires etc.
But I did notice their website was no where to be found.
Wish I were back there......
Oh yeah, I promised more on the trip! Next week when work is a little slower.
daydreamin again
Good to know they're still open, and that I'm not going crazy - I know they had a website. Strange, eh?
Thanks for the info (and for the great trip report!)
Did the Villa Calabreeze have air conditioning? We're going to St. John for our honeymoon in April and have been looking at the Villa Calabreeze. We're worried that if it doesn't have airconditioning we might be too hot. Any thoughts?