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We just returned from St Thomas (stayed at the Morningstar) - the trip was phenomenal! We had our good and bad experiences, would like to list them down for the benefits of those who are going there in the future - if you are renting a CAR do read the section on our experience with the parking lot at red hook. In my opinion, renting a CAR is a MUST - allows you much more freedom and is more cost effective and convenient than cabs, the left side driving is not difficult at all.
We picked the off season (June 11-17) to make the vacation more cost effective and also escape the crowds - both these were realized, however the heat is just unbearable between 11 am and 2 pm, make sure you have a nice big cooler stuffed with iced drinks and a beach umbrella handy if you are planning to spend time on the white sands. Remember - You DONT need to buy everything (and lug heavy baggage) before you fly out, there is a KMart on STT where you can buy everything at prices comparable to the US mainland.
GOOD THINGS ABOUT ST. THOMAS:
Beaches / Snorkeling:
Megan's Bay is the BEST beach on STT. I can say this because we had a bunch of guide books with us and being white-sand beach fanatics, we tried to track down every listed beach (for lindquist beach we even took our rented toyota echo down a narrow dirt road). If you have time for just one beach, this is it - not too many crowds, long coastline, and beautiful scenery. I have been to Hawaii and Florida and in my opinion, none of the beaches there can match this one.
Brewer's bay is not as "touristed" (this is a term I will use often to highlight if something is overexposed), and has a nice white sand coastline and is close to the airport.
Coki point - great for snorkeling, but heavily touristed with all the sleaze that goes with it, one local even tried to sell some ganja to us in broad daylight (10 am). However, the BEST snorkeling in STT - if you have only one snorkekling stop, this would be it. I am comparing it to Sapphire, Lindquist, Megans. Coral World ($15 each) is great if you have kids, otherwise it is a tourist trap. The free Coki Beach is not as well maintained, wonder if Coral World's commericial interests have something to do with that.
Restaurants: You will find two types - overprices resort restaurants heavily promoted by the guide books and TV promos, and the ones which locals frequent when they want to go out for dinner. I would say stick with the latter, CUZZIN's is such a place, fantastic food at reasonable prices. On the other hand, Blue Havana in our hotel was super expensive, and the menu not something you wouldnt be able to find at a restaurant in Chicago or Los Angeles.
WHAT WE DIDNT LIKE ABOUT St THOMAS
What we heard on this board earlier about the unfriendliness of some locals, is TRUE. They are now so tourist-jaded that some of them are just after your money (without the commensurate service) and you can clearly see it. It is also true that many of them are not from St Thomas, rather from other places and here just to make money.
We saw an instance of this when our rental car got TOWED at RED HOOK parking lot. You will find out that this unpaved parrking lot has no clear marked signs as to where to park your car, you have to ask the toll lady (there is only one for the entire lot) for where to park your car, cars are parked/double parked in every which configuration. She asked us to park in what would be illegal parking in a regular lot, but we thought what the heck, she owns the lot anyway - and sure indeed when we returned from st john in the evening, our car was still there (to our relief).
On a second trip to St John, we had the occasion to park our car in the exact same spot. We figured, it should be ok this time around as well. Well, as you must have figured out, when we returned the car was MISSING. There was no one at the parking lot (7:30 pm). We found the same lady (she runs a food stand at night) and man, was she rude to us, refusing to even explain why the car was towed. Finally, she gave us the number of the towing company that operates in the area - we called that guy, and to our relief (!) he had the car with him - we had to take an expensive cab back to a seedy location and pay the guy $125 cash to get hold of our car. The whole thing was a horrible experience, especially for my wife, who was really very upset.
We tried not to let it cloud our overall experience here, which was fabulous, but it did expose us to the shadier realities of STT.
GOOD THINGS ABOUT St JOHN (2 day trips):
Wonderful place and wonderful people, in stark contrast to St Thomas - I dont know why considering both the islands are so close anyway. Here again, RENT a JEEP / VITARA kind of vehicle to keep your own schedule and see more places. We paid $54 a day from Varlack ventures (tell them you want the 10% coupon discount they offer in some book) for a two door VITARA.
Best Beaches / Snorkeling:
Trunk Bay - simply mind-blowing, I am not going to repeat what every guide book will say.
Hawksnest - Absolute must see, great snorkeling as well. We saw a sting ray swimming like 10 feet from the shore!
Cinnamon - if you have seen Hawksnest, no need to come here, unless you have plenty of time to kill
Waterlemon Cay near Leinster Bay - this island is a great snorkeling spot - we reached it through a 30 min hike, then snorkeling) - however, I feel coki is much more convenient and equally good.
WHAT WE DIDNT LIKE ABOUT St JOHN - Nothing to say here!
This is a gem of a place, if we could plan our vacation again, we would just stay at St John and skip St Thomas altogether. It has friendlier people, better beaches, better snorkeling and all the conveniences in Cruz Bay.
Hope this helps, I would be glad to address any follow up questions.
The trip overall was great, we would definitely come back to the VI, preferably St John or try and exlplore the BVIs.
IMO, if my vacation was like DisneyWorld I would be very upset!!! I love St. John b/c of how natural it is. I love how 80% of it is a National Park. Almost all of my vacations are taken at National Parks due to the seclusion and beauty that they provide. I just am very offended at the post stating that people like STJ b/c of the "fake" atmosphere. There is nothing fake about it. It is extremely beautiful and for me is the ultimate vacation due to how natural it is. I don't need bars or urban life to have a good vacation. Spots like Disney World or Niagra Falls or other "touristy" spots really turn me off. I may be a "tourist" when I visit but I sure as heck don't treat locals like a "typical American" or whatever. I realize that I am visiting their home and need to bring as much manners with me as I can!!
Hello,
Arih thanks for sharing your trip review with us; good tips in there. The car towing issue - what a nightmare.
Parrotfish and "ok..we love the virgin islands" aka "friendly fellow"; if you can't play nice, don't play. Your preference for one island over the other is valid, as are your opinions that support the preference. But your method of conveying your opinion (bashing the people who like a particular island for example) doesn't jive with the friendly atmosphere that I try to foster on the board.
Thanks guys.:)
--Islander
My 5 year old did the snorkel around Waterlemon in fairly rough water with no problem. He is also not a strong swimmer but we had a snorkel vest on him and we held his hand alot of the time. Put a snorkel vest or some other flotation vest on you daughter. In fact I would recommend this for any snorkel you take her on if she is not a strong swimmer. There are very few places you can snorkel that would not be over a 7 year old's head.
thanks Dale. I think we'll invest in a snorkel vest.
Parrotfish, did I meet you at Ronnie's last June? Or, was that Puffinfish? Or Pufferfish? Too many cyberbuddies to keep up with
Anyway, STT is like the city and STJ is like the burbs. City folks will always argue that the city is better, livelier, more cosmopolitan, etc. Suburban people will always argue that the burbs are quiet, quaint, safe, etc.
I can think of good arguments for both islands - depending on my mood. And, yes, STJ does seem more white than STT. Though, I did see some whites with dreadlocks (pretty funny) - so I guess they're trying to lend cultural elements too.
Personally, I prefer no music on the beach. I like to read, sleep, think, etc. I like music - but I like to shut it off when I am ready, or play what I want. I also prefer no rental umbrellas or chairs. I like things the way I remember them growing up on the island - no chairs and umbrellas - chairs and umbrellas are "touristy" and, IMHO, detract from the natural beauty of the beach. I also don't like all of those food stands, drink stands, snorkel gear rental places, clothing stands, etc... enough is enough already. I liked Coki when you just drove up, parked on the dirt, entered from a path on the left side and could get a pate' from a little stand in the corner - 1 stand, no music, no stairs, no Coral World, NO cruise ship passengers.
I guess that's part of the appeal of STJ - there are still beaches where you have to make your way through the trees to find the sand.
- like STT used to be. And, yes, there are still beaches on STT like that - but I won't name them for fear that the locals who quietly enjoy them will refuse to serve me painkillers next week.
STJ is the way it is becasue of the park system and the protection that offers the land. I wish STT had some of the same protection....so there would be less commerce going on and more enjoyment of the beauty. And, I know this is dreamy, but I wish there was a way for STT to thrive with less tourists, less people coming from other places to try to capitalize on the tourism, less cars, less people overall - I wish STT could tear down the docks, block the airport and get all of those new business tycoons off of the island - and get back to what it used to be.
blu, another few opinions for you. first if your daughter will be snorkeling in water over her head, please make her use a vest. any adult who can use a snorkel, whether they can swim or not, would have a hard time drowning while snorkeling from a stj beach, because they water is so buoyant, you can float forever and just kick occasionally to keep moving. maho is perfect beach for beginners, wade in any place with fins & mask on insert snorkel, lean forward and kick! let your daughter (with vest) snorkel around a little until she gets comfortable, move her to deeper water so she can learn to paddle upright to clear/remove mask and or snorkel.
granted unless a ray or turtle are cruising through the grass in the middle, she won't see much but that's not goal, goal is to get her completely comfortable in the water with a mask and snorkel. let her see how she just floats along (even w/o vest). when she's comfortable, let her follow you out the right side of the bay, staying out enough that she CAN'T touch the soft coral close in in shallow water. she'll see all kinds of fish and color and i believe she'll have a real confidence builder and want to do more. next i"d take her to hawksnest and/or jumbie for swimming over shallow coral in middle of hawk and at jumbie to right around the rocks looking for fish under the rocks and in the crevasses, bottom's sandy and it"s shallow.
after that she might be ready for waterlemon on a calm day. it's a 100 yds from beach to the bay (nearest) end of waterlemon. doesn't sound far but few people could freestyle that far without a rest stop. granted kicking along on snorkel is much easier but also much slower. water's very deep in middle and youngster might tend to panic.
summary, get her addicted to snorkeling in good easy spots where she can walk in (and out) and start seeing great stuff. if she really enjoys, she'll become very proficient and let you know when she's ready for the open water.
papabou
ps, just remembered you're staying on stt this trip, traitor. been years since i've been in water there except at bolong, but seems that coki and magen's are easy beach entries for young snorkelers. same instructions would apply there but daughter might get bored at magen's since not much to see (underwater at least). get her comfortable with all the equipment and the mechanic's of float snorkeling, then hit stj beaches on day trip!
enjoy
pss, you poor mouthed on a response to me once about the financial demands on single mom raising children(child). as much as you post here and other vi boards (not a complaint because i do enjoy) you couldn't have a job AND the time to do all your posting. you on food stamps? just kidding.
ha ha papabou,
This thread is more than a year old!! How did you dig it up? My daughter is now a skilled snorkeler.
Funny about the food stamps. Actually, I never claimed anything about financial demands. The thread you are referencing was where someone (maybe you) was asking me why I don't select more villas on the South shore of STJ. I made the single mom comment because I like to be near people when I travel alone with my daughter - not out in remotes areas where I feel vulnerable and isolated. It has nothing to do with finances, and everything to do with safety and convenience. I like to be near cruz bay and within earshot of other homes when I am alone with her - and when we go alone I never post where I am staying until I return. On this trip next month, I am taking the whole 3 generation posse, so now worries! I think you took that old post as a claim of financial demand because you responded with comments about finances. We had a disconnect. I am, however, always on a budget. Just because I have it doesn't mean that I want to leave it all in the VI!! 😉
You'll note that I try to catch up with posts on here in my very late night hours or early morning. I work full time as a technologist for a fortune 100 firm, and also have my own business. No food stamps. Sometimes, though, I wish I had a simpler life. I am trying hard to live on less - stop spending so much $, stop consuming so much, stop using so much energy. I am right not experimenting with living without my car. It is parked in the garage and I use the bus and subway. Man, it takes FORever to get anywhere.
What are you doing digging up threads from June 2005, Papa?
blu,
since we know computer info can't manipulate self, something strange has happened. unless i'm away from home where i don't have internet service, i check this board and a couple others daily; usually in the morning when i log on and in evening before i log off. if there are some interesting threads i'll check the site when i check news and emails. recently have been online daily; that is to say when i check board of vinow, i only have to check current page for the yellow stamps for the new stuff.
as i recall when i checked board last evening before logging off, the tread about waterlemon was about 3/4 way down ist page (all i ever have to check unless looking for something). didn't recall seeing before and as i recall there was yellow stamp by or near your post, so i started down, saw your comments and questions, know you spend time answering a lot of inquiries, so i "played it forward" with my response to you. if i'd checked dates i would not have read or responded.
having raised (with some help from the bride) 2 daughters and now enjoy frequent visits and vacations with 2 granddaughters, i appreciate your security/safety awareness concerns (you are wise beyond your years) and trust ribbing about being financially challenged wasn't taken seriously. anyone who can go to islands more than once in a lifetime can't be distute! also enjoy the senior generation while you can, before you know it they will be gone or needing your attention more as they age. the bride and i were foot loose and worry free till june 05, when the 3 surviving parents all had disabling strokes within 30 days, 2 subsequently died and the final remaining grandparental is slipping away with 24/7 care next door. while we had the joy of having them for sooo long, the bride is having a tuff time watching her 89 yr old dad waste away. we are blessed with great caregivers but except for oct 05 stj trip we were already committed on and enjoyed with 2 younger generations, bride and i don't go away together so one of us will always be close by.
sorry about venting on personal affairs, just missing islands and feeling sorry for self and wanting the rest of world to enjoy while hey can!
enjoy your trip and your family.
papabou
