Days passed lazily and easily on Magens Bay this week. We ate at some of our favorite places - including Burrito Bay in Red Hook where they make the best jerk chicken burritos served with "seasoned rice" (Spanish), white rice or a side salad (and probably other things I don't recall seeing on the menu) - very tasty and reasonably priced.

Around midweek, the boys started to talk about wanting to get to Virgin Gorda for a day at the Baths. We all got excited (imagine that - we were actually going to expend a little energy to DO something - ha ha). But, the night before we were to leave, the boys said they didn't feel like it…and, frankly, nobody else seemed to care either. Not that the Baths aren't a sight to behold and experience, but - we have already visited more than once - and the thought of the trip seemed like more hassle than we felt like handling. I had become accustomed to "shuffling" around all day. If I had to keep time for a boat to VG, it might strain my brain, so we all just shrugged at the boys' announcement…..and went back to shuffling.

Feeling awfully lazy and a little guilty about it, we decided to get to St John on the day we had originally planned to get to VG. St John seemed like a more easily achievable goal.

I think we missed a couple of ferries (shuffling and all), so we didn't depart for STJ 'til after lunch (at Burrito Bay). The day was a little overcast, which was alright since I was hoping to really get some time in the water without burning to a crisp. I knew we would also find plenty of shade, which is what I enjoy about most STJ beaches and Magens - there's always shade to be had under palms or a seagrape. Speaking of seagrapes, the grapes were multicolored this time of year…or are they always and I've never noticed. I enjoyed looking at the jewel-toned seagrapes hanging in HUGE bunches.

The ferry ride was pleasant, but we did jump a couple of large swells, which brought a cheer from the crowd on the upper deck. "Whoooooo" everyone suddenly yelled as we came down from that lift. It was a little "roller coaster" feeling. But, that was the only crazy hill…the rest were a little rocky, but manageable. I wonder if Ernesto had something to do with the sea being rough. (it wasn't rough at Trunk Bay).

We exited the ferry (THERE WERE NO SHIPS IN ON THIS DAY) and I went to say hello to Ruth at St John Spice while mom and dad went jewelry shopping. Ruth and her family were in the store (her hubby was doing some construction work on the new location of their children's store - exit the ferry and see the first set of stores on the right side of the dock - second floor). Ruth was was kind enough to offer to shoot a photo of my daughter and I on her new webcam (Google St John Spice for their site and you'll see live pics of STJ's ferry dock). After picking up a few goodies from Ruth's s store (she carries more than just the yummiest spices and rubs for grilling at your villa or bringing back with you).

Then we all loaded into the taxi and headed to Trunk Bay. On a day in the low-low season, when no ships are in town - THIS is the beach!! We happily paid our admission fee and immediately found a good spot with a canopied tree for lots of shade for sleeping (we were EXHAUSTED from the trip over, ya know? Phew!!! ; ) We then settled in for the afternoon - a little exploring down to the poisonous Manchineel tree at the far left end of the beach (it started to drizzle a little as we reached it, so we made sure not to stand under it per the instructions on the little warning/danger sign about it) - lots of floating around in the bay….and then back to the sand for reading…..back out for floating…etc….a little routine that is common with shufflers.

My daughter had spotted some GENIPS on the path to the beach, so she and I went back there to check out the supply. Many were on the ground (newly fallen and still fresh), but those in the trees were too high. We were also interested in the large, yellow/greenish fruits that were hanging from some of the trees and on the ground…we picked up one huge one and asked the lady who was working at the Natnl Park kiosk about it. She was kind enough to explain what it was - I don't recall the formal name, but "starvation fruit" is the common term. She said you would only eat it if you were starving - it is pretty yucky tasting. But, she said that the leaves from its tree are known for being a healing agent….just blanche them in water and make a pack with them - will cure aches and pains in joints and muscles. She had a personal story about what the leaves had done for her ailments. Bush medicine - another talent of the wonderful NPS!

We noticed lots of Europeans on Trunk Bay (Holiday for them) - plenty of French…and they did have their suits on, but they sure were skimpy and left little to the imagination.
Many of the people arrived at the beach later in the day - maybe 4pm or so. It seemed to be a gathering spot as groups of visitors arranged chairs in circles to chat, sip and snack. Cocktails on Trunk Bay before dinner at your villa? Sounds good, right?

The sun began to lower and we got hungry - so we packed up our little camp and went to shower off before heading to dinner in Cruz Bay. The showers had already been shut off, so I guess this was around 5pm. Oh well. We cared little.

Shuffling to the taxi took a good while. We stopped and ate genips along the way (makes it sound like a long journey, doesn't it?). We were going so slowly that our taxi driver (whom we had already linked up with on the beach) just continued his discussion at the taxi stand. He was obviously not new to our shuffling and knew that people like us wouldn't be ready to go for a little while. At the taxi, we dusted off with towels and shimmied into shorts and shirts, etc. Off we went, to Cruz Bay….savoring the views and cooling breezes of the taxi's speed along the way.

We knew where we wanted to dine in Cruz Bay, so the taxi driver dropped us off at the corner to Rhumblines - a Pac Rim fusion spot located in a tropical courtyard. My daughter loves the rope swings the serve as seats at the bar. When she and I go alone, we have our entire meal served in those swings…but, we opted for a table this time and selected one in the center tented area with a ceiling fan atop it. Tiki torches burned and palms set the mood for the meal. Everyone ordered something different and now I've waited too long to recall what we all had - but I know we raved about the Thai soup (Kaffir Lime and Coconut milk)….sooooo delish! Then I ordered from the PuPu platter, as usual (small, sample portions - just order a bunch and make a meal on them, they are that good - if you were in a Spanish restaurant, these would be called tapas).

After another wonderful meal at Rhumblines, we shuffled directly to the ferry and made it back to STT just as the sun was setting. By the time we reached the car, (which ws parked at the high school) it was dark.

We went back to our villa and fell out - Phew!! Can you imagine what might have happened if we had attempted a grand adventure such as Virgin Gorda?

I cannot recall what we did on Friday, but that was probably the day we went shopping in Charlotte Amalie and had lunch at Glady's Café. I had been wanting to buy the Carib bracelet (petroglyph - the symbol used by Caneel Bay)…and I found one in Cardow Jewelers on Main Street. My daughter picked up some new earrings. I also found the "Night of the Silent Drums" book about the slave revolt on St John - I've read a little, but found myself more consumed on the beach with Devil Wears Prada (lazy brain). After picking up this and that for friends back home, we all met for lunch at Gladys' Café and enjoyed a really fantastic lunch - salads and roti. We then strolled through the art galleries and salivated over the pieces. Nobody bought anything - but we had a close call in the Jonna White gallery.

Another one of my favorite little Beaches on STT - Platform:

Back at Fairwinds Villa, I think this may have been the night we made Mediterranean Pizza and Greek salad. We had brought the Boboli pizza crust down in the two suitcases of dry goods that we carried with us. It wasn't about the cost of food in the VI, it was about having a menu plan that required certain things that I didn't want to have to run around for - I was on vacation, not a grocery shopping spree. Pinot and Cab with the pizza - white for mom, red for me. Evening swimming commenced and everyone was really feeling the "lime".

Another deep sleep was interrupted only by the occasional strong "whoosh" outside (wind through trees).

Saturday morning turned out to be a little drizzly and overcast. It really intensified our relaxed state. It was Saturday and we, too, felt the island take a deep breath as locals settled into weekend activities and island time slowed down even farther - impossible? - not really.

We piddled around Fairwinds in the morning and then I finally realized that I had previously spoken with RonUSVI, who had said he would be at home at the Crystal Palace on Saturday morning. I called, he answered, and told me to come on over.
Ronnie and I had a nice visit, and he caught me up with the latest VINOW and Relo forum discussions, since I hadn't brought my laptop with me and had no access to the world beyond my own shuffling feet and my own foggy brain. I hadn't even been watching the news or any other TV. I had sequestered myself from the world, alas.

Ronnie shared the news of the tourist mugging on STJ as though I must have known about it. I hadn't heard. It then struck me that in the week I had been there, all of my fears and worries about safety had disappeared. I had felt completely safe. Ronnie's news was startling, but didn't strike any new fears in me.

After leaving Ronnie, my daughter and I took a leisurely ride around the west side of the island before meeting my parents at Indigo for lunch (again!). The restaurant was relatively crowded for this time of year, and many of the families there seemed to be locals or regular visitors who had come to relax for the afternoon, eat, drink and swim. As usual, I ordered the Black and Blue, and enjoyed it more and more each time.

I then went downtown to Charlotte Amalie to pick up the boys and got stopped by the police (I guess he was the Police). I was driving down Main Street but did not have my seatbelt on. I had been good about wearing it, but had forgotten at this time. As I was turning a corner, I saw a guy coming down the sidewalk from the street I was turning off of, and he was yelling at me. I strained to hear him out of my window. He came over and said "didn't you hear him telling you to put your seatbelt on" and he motioned to a police officer (in a uniform) on the street, who had already gone on to have a conversation with someone else. I just said "no, I didn't hear him say anything". That obviously made him really mad ( I didn't see a badge on this guy, but he did have on blue shorts and a blue shirt). He looked around like he was mad and then said "if I give you a ticket for not having a seatbelt on, can YOU afford to pay it". I pondered this question for a moment. After all, I have no idea how much these tickets are, so how would I know if I can pay it? And I thought that asking me if I could afford the ticket was an interesting approach - if I can't afford it, do I not get one? I decided not to ask him how much it might be….and I could see that he was really mad at me for whatever…so I just looked at him, waiting for my ticket, or to be dismissed.

That made him madder, so he then looked left and right again and bobbed his head a few times like he was too mad to talk…(mind you, I am now halfway turned onto this street, but not all the way, so I am blocking traffic on two streets). Then he said "Okay, give me your license and registration!!!". I calmly asked him if he wanted me to pull over (there was a parking space right in front of me, which he was sort of standing in - so I could have just turned my wheel and glided right in). That made him mad…"no! If they don't like it, too bad!" Now I was thinking "Ok, this is some of that VI Police stuff I have read about and this guy might just haul off and sock me…or lock me up for whatever he thinks he might want to say I did"…since it all seemed pretty ridiculous over a seat belt when they have murders and rapes going unsolved everyday….but my lack of seatbelt was sure making him mad. So I handed him my license, which he seemed surprised to see.

Then his mood changed. "You're on vacation?" I just nodded solemnly - honestly feeling like this is a pretty sad scene. Then he looked at my license like he was looking for something on it and then he said "You don't look like your picture" - kind of like he was now joking with me. I just said "its me"…but I was thinking "yeah, see, in THAT picture, I am smiling - and pretty happy…but NOW I am NOT - so maybe that is why it doesn't look like me!"….then he handed it back to me and reverted to his grumpiness - "you are in the Virgin Islands - the UNITED STATES Virgin Islands" (with lots of head bobbing and neck weaving) and he made this big emphasis on UNITED STATES, like I didn't know where the heck I was all this time. Gee, how did I get here? I thought I was in France on the Riviera! My travel agent will be fired as soon as I return! Then he went on about obeying the laws, etc. It was probably the most UN-United States feeling event of the entire trip and the only time I felt threatened because it was so ridiculous that I really wasn't sure what to expect next- how ironic is that? I guess if you cannot solve the real crimes, you just get your power and sense of accomplishment for the easy stuff like seatbelt laws and such. It just seemed like a bit much and the obvious emotional input was unnecessary and, imo, unprofessional - give a ticket, or not…and let that be it.

The boys then decided to head to St John for the late afternoon and evening. I dropped them at the ferry and spent the rest of the afternoon doing whatever - I cannot recall.

Sunday was Jon's day to depart. We all got up early and went to Magens Bay. We ordered breakfast to eat out at the picnic benches in the sand(Omlets, French toast, coffee, OJ). The weather was just perfect and the sky was clear and blue. Since it was Sunday, we saw lots of locals coming to the beach for a morning jog or a swim. People seemed to enjoy power-walking in the water above their waists and we saw quite a few locals doing this. I really think I saw Ali Maduro who runs the website www.vipolitics.com He's too handsome to be missed. I would have liked to have had a discussion with him - and it would have had absolutely nothing to do with his good looks …nope, nothing at all….it would have been just because of his website (you all believe me, right?)

We hung out on Magens until just before it was time to get Jon to the airport. Once we dropped Jon off, we headed back to Fairwinds for some pool time.

I cannot remember the little details of the next week. My son left on Tuesday. On Wednesday, I got up early to meet up with Sherri from McLaughlin Anderson and to go with her on a tour of the villas that were not currently occupied. I had decided to stick with touring villas on the Northside since we were trying to squeeze in quite a few and we also needed to spend part of the time with a larger tour group of booking agents.

I could immediately tell that Sherri and I would hit it off. She was really easy-going, but really into the villas and seemed to know so much about each one. We visited and I have photos of Gisela, Jamie, Sunset, Banana, Indochine, Miramar, Infinity and Sherri's properties - Rockworks and Stone Cottage. Believe it or not, these visits took up the entire morning and early afternoon. Sherri and I had a great time together and I appreciate the time she took in showing me around these lovely homes.

After the tours, Sherri and I went to have lunch - GUESS WHERE? Indigo! Again, more awesome food - another Black and Blue for me and Mojitos for us both. We hung out and talked for a while and then I headed back to Fairwinds, where I floated in the pool until my parents returned from Secret Harbour with my daughter, where they had spent the day together while I toured. They had eaten their lunch at Blue Moon Café on the beach at Secret Harbour, and said they had really enjoyed that.

I also had the pleasure of meeting the poster "A. Davis" from this forum. What a nice lady!! We met by chance and, at first, didn't realize that we were both posters on VINOW…but I mentioned VINOW and she told me what her screen name was and I told her mine….talk about serendipity!

On Friday I went to Indigo for lunch again and had their special - a SERIOUSLY TO DIE FOR Jalapeno crabcake sandwich and a side salad ---- OOOOH if you ever see this on the specials list, ORDER IT! I wish they would add it to the regular menu…then again, if they do, I will have to choose between it and my beloved Black and Blue, which would be too hard, so never mind!

On Friday night (I think), I went to Toad and Tart English Pub to meet up with STT Resident from this forum. She is the owner of that restaurant and I was really glad to see her again. She is really a unique lady with an island relocation success story that is very interesting. Unlike so many people who "jump in" and then later learn about the VI life and decide it isn't for them, she jumped in and eventually made a life for herself on the island, opened a successful restaurant and really connected as a local. Plus, she serves the best clam chowder I have ever tasted and her drinks are really reasonable, unlike most other restaurants.

After a few drinks and my big bowl of clam chowder, I got my bill and felt like such a cheapo for not spending more (under $20). But, how much can one lady eat and drink? Luckily, a local friend of mine called on my cell phone and he also knows STT Resident, so he came by and we then had more drinks. It was on this night that I sat at the bar and poured out my tale of woe about my daughter really wanting genips (most people sit at the bar discussing divorce, financial issues, etc…I sat there sipping my cocktail at the bar and saying "every time I see them on a tree, they're too high…I just don't know what to do…I try and try" ha ha ) It was then that STT Resident went out into the night and picked genips from a tree on her property, tired them in a bouquet and handed them for me to give to my daughter. Saved!!! Thanks again STT Resident.

On Saturday we went to Indigo for lunch again I can hear you all saying "Oh my! How many times did she go there???!!! Does she OWN that place or what?") No, I don't even know who owns it - and I don't have any personal interest in it - don't personally know anyone who works there and don't even know the name of ONE person there -but I love it!

Ok, so on this day I was going for my LAST Black and Blue of this trip and this was a very important appointment (but I told myself I would order the special if they had that crabcake again, which they did not)….but, guess what? I looked at the menu…NO BLACK AND BLUE (panic!) I then flipped the menu over - no black and blue on that side either….so I flipped it back and read again…slowly…..nothing….and I just said "uh oh!" Everyone at our table stoped talking and looked at me - "what's wrong??"…..I was still flipping the menu back and forth…and I began to stutter "no black and…and….black and blue…it's gone!" The the waitress came over and I told her that there was a problem….where's the black and blue? Oh, she said, we changed the menu today for the September season…so we took off some things that we know are really painful for people to see go. She had this serious look of sympathy and concern, like she had already been through this with other poor souls like me. Everyone else happily ordered their meals, while I just tried to wrap my mind around this. Then, when it was my turn to order, I had to ask for a moment to regroup….and I later ordered the seared tuna sandwich - but it wasn't B&B. MAJOR BUMMER! First, Meson Amalia was closed for the ENTIRE duration of my trip - and now this. My two favorite spots (sniff).

I think we just hung out for the rest of our visit and on our final day, Sunday, we got up and went to Mass at Our Lady Perpetual Help church on Mafolie. I really enjoyed this Mass and love the quaint size of this beautiful little church. The Priest, Reverend Troy deChabert Schuster, is from St Croix and he really seems to have big expectations of his congregations and his church. Word from our local friends who attend there is that not everyone appreciates all of the changes and the fussing he does…..but at least he is advocating advancement and is running a tight ship over there.

This was my church when I was a little girl, and I can recall being in it just after I made my first communion and being really nervous about going up. Also, if I recall, this was at the time that people started taking communion in their hands, not directly to mouth…and I learned to do that in this church. So, it is a place with lots of memories for me. My dad also helped to build the Parish Hall along with other parishioners who pitched in.

Mom and Dad had gone to Mass on the Sundays prior, without me (shamefully I write)….and they said that on those visits, the Rev. Schuster had been chastising some of his congregation for practicing Santeria in his cemetery. "Stay OUT of my cemetery" they recalled him emotionally pleading.

Santeria is a religion that originated in Africa - specifically with Yoruba people, who are in Nigeria. Santeria has millions of followers spread across the United States, the Caribbean, Central, and South America. It is called Voodoo in Haiti, Macumba in Brazil and Candomble in the Northern coasts of South America - and Santeria in the VI and in the US. It involves animal sacrifice, rites of initiation, physical possession (having your body possessed by a spirit), drums and dance, etc. In days when Africans were slaves, they were not allowed to practice their own religion, so they "hid" their Yoruba religion behind Catholicism and worship of Catholic Saints…and the two religions became meshed - as "Santeria" means "Worship of the Saints". Several years back, I spent some time studying Santeria. Personal opinions aside, I have a respect for the power of Yoruba and strongly urge any curious readers to stay away from the island cemeteries at night. My parents had once been curious and had gone looking for a ceremony in Brazil, which didn't make the Priestess too happy once they were discovered watching from the bush…and my mom had a powder blown in her face from the hands of the woman who discovered them. They then left, without knowing what the powder was or did…and may never know.

After Mass, we all drove by my parents' friend's home to say farewell, and then to Magens Bay for one last breakfast on the beach. We were all so sorry to be sitting there in our clothing from Mass, rather than in swimsuits for the day…and we were even more sorry to be leaving.

Back at Fairwinds, we started to load up the cars and bid farewell to our home for the past 2 weeks. It was very hard to leave this place. But, it is good to know that we'll be back (REALLY soon!) and we would love to stay at this villa again.

The flight home was uneventful and we are still raving about our visit - now a week after returning.

THE END!