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My wife and I were in St. Thomas from 05/19/07 thru 05/25/07, I must say it was a love/hate affair.
We are in our mid-thirty's, middle-class, live in Western North Carolina and both of us have always lived in the south (she-North Georgia, me-East coast Florida), so neither of us are strangers to heat and humidity. I give you this information for reference only.
Day 1: We flew out of Charlotte so it was a direct flight on U.S. Air,
we arrived at 1:15. The view on the flight in was stunning; the islands just jump out of the blue-green water. Getting off the plane was something out of a movie (and my first hint I wasn't on the mainland), no terminals ramps, we off loaded onto stairs wheeled up to our 757 on to the hot tarmac and are herded half way around the airport, which has no a/c, to baggage claim. We went straight to Hertz and walked right up to the counter, no line. Communication for me was rough, even though the locals speak a broken English I had a hard time understanding what was being said. This is MY problem NOT the locals I am in their home and just did the best I could. The whole airport experience was painless and in less than 20 mins. we were headed out of the car rental parking lot in our Honda Fit.
Driving in St. Thomas: my advice-
1) Follow the cars in front of you until you get the feel for driving on the left, it comes almost natural after about five-ten mins. 2) Have a drink or three, every one else has. 3) Opt. for insurance for the piece of mind, people drive like Mexican cab drivers, drunken Mexican cab drivers.
The drive to our hotel took about 20 mins. We stayed at the Mafolie Hotel on the hillside above Charlotte Amalie. The roads are super curvy and steep once you get off the main drag and are actually quite fun to navigate once you get the feel for cars flying by you on the wrong side at break-neck speed. The Hotel was nice, it is old and could stand some rehab, but our room (110) was fairly clean. For the most part everyone at the hotel was friendly and professional, they let us in our room early and again, the process was painless. I dropped off my bags and ran down four flights of stairs to the pool bar. This is my first experience with the "Virgin Island pour", my vodka tonic was a solo cup of Absolute with a mere hint of tonic, I know this because I watched in awe as my new best friend up-righted the bottle and let it flow right to within a ½" of the rim. Upon returning to the room my wife had unloaded her stuff and had the window a/c unit in our bedroom humming (we had a two room mini-suite), no a/c in the main area just big windows we kept open all the time. There was always a breeze so it was quite comfortable until around 2pm - then it was hot until evening.
We headed to town for lunch at The Green House. It was descent but over priced as was to be the case with all restaurants. I stepped out to the street to smoke a cigarette and was harassed by a toeless panhandler and offered coke and/or pot twice and was cused when I said that I was not interested. I'm a big boy, this did not bother me, but just as a warning- it's there. We grabbed a bottle of Absolute (we were just giddy about paying $16.00 for liter, later found out we paid $6.00 to much) and headed back to the hotel. Did some pool time, met Hoppy the three legged cat and headed for dinner at the hotel Restaurant Mafolie. Great dinner, better service and the view can't be beat! A must do when you are in STT.
Day 2: I'm cursed with an affliction known as early riser- I wake between 4:00 & 5:30 every day. The Mafolie does not open their continental breakfast until 8:00 so three hours in the morning without coffee does not make for a good start. They do not close the pool so it was swimming and cigarettes at the pool till 8:00. The breakfast was nice, we had bagels, coffee and juice every day over looking the Bay (and the huge iguanas just over the railing). We went to Coki Beach on day two which means we drove around the east end, it is a ghetto, plain and simple. Coki was great (better than Magens Bay by far) and we had a great day! This was our unwind day- what a fantastic day! Lot's of drinks and sun, hated to leave. We stopped by Duffy's Love Shack on the way back and drank out of coconuts and had a good lunch ($75.00 dollars later). We stopped by the grocery and picked up beer, limes, instant coffee & bananas. Light dinner at our hotel.
Day 3: Shopping. Day three sucked for me and my credit cards, but no taxes and good prices makes the wife happy!. Ate at Wikkid at the new mall, Yacht Haven Grande, way over priced and not that good - again no a/c. Had a light dinner at the hotel and lots of drinks to help me forget the husband torture known as duty-free shopping. Light dinner at our hotel
Day 4: Magens Bay- a lot like being on a cruise ship. It may be just us, but my wife and I agree that Magens Bay is highly over rated, unless you like cruise ship people, then you may like it a whole bunch. Oh, beers cost more here then they did at Coki Beach - $10.00 for 2 local canned beers. Had lunch at Subway (they do have a/c - go figure!) lingered in the a/c. Dinner was at Iggie's at Bolongo Beach Resort for all you can eat crab legs, again over priced for food not much better than a cheap Chinese buffet. The resort looked beat down - we wouldn't suggest it.
Day 5: Somehow or another, my wife talked me in to going to Tiffany's and just that easily day 5 was ruined. After a long day of drinking away the pain, we decided to have Wendy's in our room. I drove down to the store, about a 10 min. drive, and went in to pick up some burgers. While I was in line a bum asked me for .85 cents (this was only the second time I was asked for cash). Normally I don't hand out money, but I was feeling guilty about all the money my wife was spending so I tossed a buck his way. He got down on his hands and knees and told me all my sins had been lifted blah-blah-blah. I told him to stand up and then I turned around, oh boy, there stood a local women in her late 50's and she proceeded to tear in to me about being an enabler, and she was right. I stood there and took my medicine for about 5 mins (all service places are slooowww in STT). We ended up talking for a few mins. after the blow-up and she was really quite nice. She asked me what I thought of her island and told me to be honest, at this point I had nothing to lose, and told her exactly what I thought. She thanked me for being honest and said good evening, it was a conversation I will never forget.
Day 6: St. John day- left the house early to make the 7:30 ferry in Red Hook, missed the first one and went over on the 8:00. We had made reservations for a ½ day dinghy rental at Noah's Little Arks (we rented a 12'-15hp, next time we will do a 14' - 30hp for a whole day), we went out from 8:30 till 12:30 and had the best time! My wife, who I thought would hate it, loved it! Snorkeling is amazing! We saw lots of neat stuff swimming around and it was nice to be on the water. St. John was gorgeous, I wished we had spent more time there. We had lunch at some place the dinghy girl recommended, Woody's I think, it was good and the beer was cold. After the ferry ride back to STT we stopped back at Duffy's and drank out of monkey heads. Duffy's really is a shack in a parking lot but a must do in STT. Back to the hotel for some pool time and drinks, by this time we were ready to be done with vacation- 6 days may be to much for us. We headed to Frenchtown hoping to find a cheap dinner, obviously we had not learned yet, no cheap dinner in STT. For whatever reason we ended up back at The Green House in time for the end of happy hour and dinner. I had nachos (not bad at all) and beer, my wife had the small fried shrimp plate - I kid you not, five small shrimp, 6 plantain slices and a small baked potato for $15.00 dollars. We were seated at the rail and all through dinner we watched bums on the sidewalk. Only one approached us asking if he could draw our picture, he was polite when I told him I did not have any cash. About this time our waiter started screaming at the bums to leave, this worked for maybe five mins. I think we watched T.V. in our room to finish the night.
Day 7: Never been so ready to go home. Check out was at 11:00, we asked if we could check out later and they said the latest they could do was 12:00 but they would hold our bags if we wanted. My wife wanted to do a self guided historic walking tour of Charlotte Amalie, not the smartest move in 90 degree heat before a plane trip. Walking up the "99 Steps" in the heat opened up the sweat valves like a broken faucet! Our flight was at 4:05 and we had just enough time to run back to the hotel and strip down in front of the a/c for a few mins. Check out was a breeze, we opted to take our bags with us and headed to town for Subway for lunch and more a/c, did some last min. souvenir shopping. There were no cruise ships in so very few shops were open but we found what we needed and headed for the airport. I dropped my wife and our bags off in front of the ticket counter and dropped off the rent-a-car (5 mins.). We got our boarding passes and made it through customs in less then 45 mins. There is no a/c at the airport so we waited in the terminal for about an hour searching for a fan. Boarding was a little confusing but we made it to our plane- they were loading two planes at once and had not announced that they had changed our gate (maybe they did and we just did not understand). Our plane left on time and we made great time heading back, I think we landed about 30 min early, none to soon for us.
Vacation Grade: B-
Great report! I'm so glad you came back to add the pictures and to confess that the islands have crept into your head and heart! We stay at the Mafolie on every visit (normally 2-3 nights there then 2-3 nights at Marriott or condo on STJ), and love the property. The pool bar is relaxing, fun, and a great value (the do pour them strong!). Hope you'll be back - spend some time on STJ and head over to Jost Van Dyke for the day as well - if you do, I promise you'll be hooked for life!
Jeff
Thanks for the very funny reading and yes, honest report. It doesn't do anyone any good to get a sanitized report even though one must remember each report is based on that individual's opinion. I find ones 'grade' of any vacation depends upon expectations more than actual experience yet their desire to return is based solely on their experience.
USVI are islands and not corporate resorts so they are limited in what conveniences we are all accustomed to on the mainland. If someone goes to the USVI expecting those same conveniences, they are disappointed but when they return to the mainland the charms of the islands stand out against the very life style they longed for on the island...go figure.
It's like going from the city to the country for vacation and complaining they can't find a good bakery or deli yet when they get back to the hustle of the city they long for the country.
Does anybody think that it all depends on where you stay on St. Thomas???
Personally, I'm not fond of Charlotte Amalie at all. Last year, I didn't like shopping there. Would much rather go to Havensite.
I like the Red Hook and North End of St. Thomas so much more and I think if you don't get out and experience the rest of the island that you're missing alot.
Connie I definitely agree with you. We only spent one afternoon downtown CA and that was enough for me. altho, we didn't do anything historical, and I maybe would've like that, we just ate (at Cuzzins) and shopped a little. There are all the same stores at Havensite where we spent the biggest part of a day there (and again on the way to the airport when leaving). From our experience at Secret Harbour and eating/drinking in Red Hook, I could've stayed right there all week. I do wish, however, we'd seen some more of STT's beaches. Instead we spent a day on STJ (which was great) and a day on Jost (which was the BEST) There simply wasn't enough time to do it all in one week, and our beach right out our sliding doors was just awesome, so why drive around everywhere else? One minute I say that I'd like to go back and possibly stay on STJ, then other times I think - why do that? when you can stay right on the beach with a great bar/restaurant, and then just ferry over to the other islands when so inclined?
I'm sure Mafolie is a nice place and has incredible views, but I go on vacation for the BEACH! the sun and the sand, and a drink in my hand.
Mountaineer....you didn't see Sapphire Beach??? You have to go back...it's a great beach, great water and so pretty.
And you didn't go to Coki? Some people don't like it because it is such a local beach, but we spent a good day there and really like it alot. Husband had a great time talking to a local (he may have been security) about the Phila Eagles vs the Dallas Cowboys...I won't even go there, but husband loved it.
And you didn't go to Coki? Some people don't like it because it is such a local beach
That's exactly WHY we loved Coki! We love visiting with locals no matter where we go. 🙂
Oh yeah, I agree with you. I like getting into the local culture and i think it helps in being more comfortable in your surroundings.
Jeff: I, too am sorry about your experience, but I keep wondering how you kept all those cigs lit while you were swimming! 😀
If we get a second chance, or for other people who are reading your report, a couple of comments:
The Virgin Islands are not inexpensive, however, there are some places where you can get a pretty good bargain. Cuzzin's has huge portions and you can try the local cuisine. If you are from the south, you will recognize a lot of the foods. Molly Molone's is reasonable. Iggie's has a spectacular oceanside view, so does Fungi's. Tickle's for people watching. Some places have a patio or bar menu with sandwiches, salads, etc. Blue Moon and Indigo come to mind. Another hint at some of the more expensive spots is to order several apps and share. For example, Grapevine Grille has a huge personal pizza and good salads, although their entrees are pretty pricy. This is true of many of the other places that are proud of their food.
Re: the lack of air conditioning. Most places are designed to be open air, taking advantage of the tradewinds. When there is a high pressure system out there, the wind kinda disappears and yes, it is warm. This is more a problem in the summer, and you were here just at the start of that sort of weather.
It is fun to learn a bit about the local language and to say a few phrases. Ask one of the locals, they usually are pretty glad to share with you, meh son.
I am glad to hear that you might try again...
Bluie: "East End is a dump in some areas, " Hmm... No guava tart for you!
EE - excellent post. . When I'm running around in shorts and a tank top, I'd rather not have A/C. Maybe shade, that's all.
A sandwich and drink can be had at Blue Moon for $10-12 if I remember correctly. and a large pizza delivered was $21-23 bucks, I can't remember now, we tipped good and gave $30 because it was pouring down the rain. Molly Malones was real reasonable, unless you're a heavy drinker which is going to run up the bill no matter where you're at.
NOOO! did Blu really say that??? I can't believe it!
And I would also like to say this....If it weren't for Secret Harbour, I also would not have been overly impressed with our vacation. Since I didn't make it to any other STT beaches tho, I couldn't really criticize STT overall. STJ was nice, our day on Jost was awesome, but walking right out our sliding doors to a pretty beach, nice bar/restaurant, well it can't be beat. And since this is where we spent most of our time - well it was just the best vacation ever! Based on the one afternoon we spent in downtown CA, I wouldn't have wanted to stay there all week, that's for sure.
I think it all depends on where on STT you spend your time, and what you're looking for in a vacation.
Ah lawd.....I meant no harm, EE. I said "East End is a dump in some areas, and a millionaire's paradise in others........I am renting a villa on the EE in less than a month. I'm a brat - this isn't a dump "
For instance, Bovani....feels like a dump.
But, I did say that I am staying on the East End on my upcoming visit later this month...one of the most exclusive areas on the entire island. And I know the Ritz and Elysian are also in exclusive EE areas, as is my rental villa in Estate Nazareth. I can walk to Secret Harbour, Ritz Carlton and Elysian. Maybe you and I can share that long-awaited sunset cocktail 🙂
I BET the poster was referecing Smith Bay...and, yes, that can look like a dump. Sorry, but it does to us statesiders. We are not used to seeing the abandoned cars and junk in our home areas. But, after many, many VI visits, I realize that it does not constiture a dump....it is simply the island way. I am ok with it...but a newbie will need time to adjust and understand. Island culture does not come easily understood....please understand that for the newbies.
So, bring on the Guava tart.........puhleeeeeze! I love all the areas....Smith Bay and all!
I happen to agree with Blu entirely! I have had comments from my guests stating just the same....the road to get to Coki is dumpy, can't blame someone for stating the truth! (Tho I like the ole West Indian shacks). Also agree with Blu on her statement above...it is simply the Island Way! When we drive down our road for instance, WE see farm lots with galvanized fencing and projectiles ready to fly should a Hurricane head our way! We complain about it constantly! On the other hand, the farmers think they've done a wonderful job putting up that fence! What can I say, chalk it up to cultural differences! 🙂
Gauva Tart for you, Blu!
So,,,, what are some of STT's secrets??? I am going with my wife, two daughters (11 and 14) and my mother. Need all the help I can get.
Hey Sherri - I missed that Guava tart you threw my way. Thanks! Now, where can i get a real one? When are guava in season? I seem to recall it being late summer - not when I will be there.
Roger, what do you mean about Secrets? You mean locations, empty beaches, nature hikes, etc? You'll need to apply for the waiver to be told, unless you can impart some secrets of your own 😉
Here's one.....and I have not tried it. Has anyone yet visited the Magens Bay Nature Walk...the one that takes you back into the palm grove to the clearing? Someone on here talked about it and compared it to Narnia - very surreal. What do you all think (those who have tried it)?
Roger, i am not allowed to give away any more secrets. I told everyone how to get to this little private beach called Platform and then then someone bought the land above it and "poof".....fence erected, etc. Nobody came out and blamed me...but now they won't tell me how to get to another secret beach I know. They "claim" not to know how to reach it...but they all know what beach I'm asking about. Hmmmmm
😉
Jeff - Great trip report/pics, kind of reminded me of our first trip to STT in '89, I had some of the same feelings about the island, but, after returning in '99 and every year since for two weeks I have a totally different view. Now it's more like visiting old friends, coming home 🙂 it's hard to describe but it just get under you skin, I start planning next years visit while packing to come home.
I'd like to hear about the Magen's nature trail too.
I guess "secrets" was not the proper choice of words. You had mentioned that Jeff missed most of the "Best" places to go, as do most first timers.... So, being a first timer myself, I was wondering what some of these "Best" places were???
We are staying at the Ritz, but plan on hitting a different beach every day as well as going to St. John and the Baths. We stay on the move alot and will really just be using the Ritz as our "Base Camp".
Thanks for any info at all...! 🙂
Roger,
It may be better if you start a new post with an appropriate title. You may get a better response as this thread started to head in a different direction.
Just a thought...
EL
great repost loved it
😉
I'm still wondering what Jeff's wife got a Tiffany. 😉
