A “Pilgrimage to Paradise” we called this trip. A wonderful 10 days in paradise over Easter. Being on island during Holy Week was a unique experience and found it very uplifting. For those who are willing to invest a few hours there will be much returned. The small Catholic Mission was well attended by tourists and locals which I know will leave me memories for many years to come.

But we were in “Paradise” and that is what the report will be about. Travel from DCA to CLT started a little late, but plenty of time between connections. In fact we landed a little early in STT than our schedule arrival. The group was 3 couples (young at heart 50 somethins’). There would be two couples for the full 10 days arriving on Wednesday, and the other couple joined us on Saturday. The only bummer of our trip down was that the Welcome to the VI booth at the airport was not handing out rum punch! It was closed. On the good news side – all baggage arrived safely, and the new STJ Welcome Cart at the Ferry Dock was pouring!

Lodging:

Wednesday and Thursday night we stayed at Coconut Coast Villas. This interim residence was a real find. We have been coming to the island for years and had never heard of this small inn before this trip. They have a great location – on the water (Turner Bay), walking distance to Cruz Bay, with a wonderful pool and hot tub! Frank and Mickey, the new property managers, greeted us and showed us to the Hibiscus Suite (two bedroom – 2 bath) and the view from balcony screamed you made it!

Frank told us about a Sunset Cocktail Party over at the Coconut Coast Studios on Frank Bay. He got us pointed on the shortcut path to the party with the warning the gate is locked at 9 PM. After a day of traveling it was nice to enjoy a cocktail as the sunset surrounded by artwork and the sounds of classical flute. We even ended up procuring a painted tile. The path is the secret of getting to town easily, and so after sunset we headed to town for dinner. Our return was after 9 PM and the gate was locked as promised. No big deal we thought can go around and that is when we learned about heart attack hill. And because we were slightly confused we got to learn about it twice.

The location Coconut Coast allowed us to easily walk to the Lind Trail over to Solomon’s Beach. Although we did pick up the rent-a-car on Thursday afternoon if one was so inclined to do a 3 or 4 day weekend or respite after a boat charter a car would not be required to stay at CCV.

Friday we checked into Villa Maria! Location, Location, Location – Sitting almost at the end of the bluff the villa provides an unobstructed view of Great Cruz, STT, and points beyond. We used Catered To once again as our rental agent and once again totally happy with their service. They allowed us to check in early and drop our bags well before check in time. Catered To just makes it easy and really provides a value added service. Thanks Marrisa!

From the first moment we walked onto the deck we knew we made the right choice. A great layout for three couples, with a kitchen stocked with high end cookware, the appropriate glassware for every type of liquid you can think of, and a pool that just called your name. Not sure if it was the owners or Catered To, but the refrigerator had all sorts of goodies and the freezer a big bag of ice. BTW Sandra, we found the magic cabinet you mentioned but the umbrella straws were gone, but there were lots of surprises.

Villa Maria is on Great Cruz Bay with a very short drive to town. Steady breezes afforded us the luxury not to even consider using the AC the entire 8 days.

If I had to complain about anything the entire week it would be that our neighbors thought 82 degree days and 72 degree nights with a steady wind required the AC be run 24/7 – the outdoor units did not shut off for three straight days and then they left. We toasted their departure.

My favorite thing about Villa Maria was its’ character. It appeared every detail from the sound system, to the pool, and even the grills locations (yes there were 2) was well thought out. It might be a little older than most of the neighboring villas, but that is part of allure. I kept waiting for Hugh Hefner to walk in with a Martini Glass and welcome us to his cottage. It also appeared that it had been recently renovated because a lot of things were sparkling new.

So guys do not be intimated - Be a man and stay in a Pink House – you will love it. Villa Maria

Saturday the whole group was together settled into Villa Maria and the week began in earnest.

Beach Report:

We hit Solomon, Gibney, Maho, Leinster/Waterlemon, Honeymoon, Hawknest, and Reef in the USVI. I must say this trip the snorkeling was EXCELLENT! (With the exception of Reef and it was real bad that day because of the winds and surf)

Oh yeah and Whistling Cay on the way to the BVI which was amazing!

Most amazing thing underwater was the march of the starfish at Waterlemon. The cay was full of starfish that were the size of dinner plates and bigger – guess it was starfish mating time. (Science totally evades me)

We saw turtles at Leinster, Hawknest, and Honeymoon. The one at Honeymoon was the biggest I have ever seen! Yep, the underwater life was abundant, the colors vibrant, and the sea extremely clear.

Adventures:

We did a day trip to the BVI on a Nauti Nymph with Capt Calvin at the helm. A drift snorkeling stop at Whistling Cay; then it was off to clear customs at the West End Tortola. From there it was around the corner to Smugglers Cove. I had not been there since 1991 or 92 – Wow what a change - Both underwater and on the beach! Not much to see underwater and there are actually people and bars on the beach. From there it was to JVD and to Sidney’s – never had been there! We had lunch and the food was great and probably the best drinks we had at any bar the whole week. Ah… maybe it was because everybody plays bartender for themselves. After lunch we did a quick motor out to Sandy Spit so we could play in the blue water and sit in the white sand.

We ended the day back on JVD at White Bay making sure Soggy Dollar stays in business. I am not sure most would classify our day as an adventure, but we had a really good time.

In all of travels to STJ, my sweetie and I have never done the Reef Bay Trail. Hence we have never seen the Petroglyphs. It was time to check this off the “to do” list. We signed up for NPS trip on Thursday, and it was really enjoyable. I guess it was around 30 folks in two taxi (what is the plural of taxi?) the group went to the head of the trail from the NPS HQ. The Ranger (our guide) had lived on island since the early 70s and really loved her home and nature. Her insights and stories were an unexpected bonus.

The benefit of doing the hike with the NPS is that you do not have to walk back up! 😉 A boat meets the group and you ride back to Cruz Bay – SWEET! $21 per person very well spent. NPS makes no money out of the deal – there is a $6 taxi fare and $15 ferry fare. Cash only please. It is not a hard walk but steady feet and decent shoes (no flip flops) are good idea.

Food and Libation(s):

Our group has a few frustrated wannabe chefs who watch way too many cooking shows, but I can honestly say the best meals on the island those 10 days were had at Villa Maria. Chef Hotrns (hotrns is a VINOW member) prepared an Easter feast of great food and wine, both of which were in abundance. We also enjoyed a couple of great evenings with fresh dolphin (oops I mean mahi) and Wahoo at the Villa also.

Sunday Beach Bar Jazz is just a must for me. There is something so cool about listening to good music with a Dark & Tonic in hand while your toes are in the sand. Mahi Sandwich at the Beach Bar was definitely a treat. Oh yeah a plug for the band - Steve Simon has a CD which was recorded live at the Beach Bar now available. I am thinking about bringing sand into the backyard and playing it loud while looking at my pond. Of course on Sundays only!

Skinny Legs was fun but I was so hungry I do not remember what I ate. I am sure it was probably a grilled fish sandwich. Come to think about it we ate a lot of Mahi. But as I said earlier it was abundant. The ice coolers of the local fisherman that hang in the parking lot over by BVI ferry were full of Mahi. The Fish Trap seafood market had plenty, and the fish even looked very fresh at Starfish. So I figure if the markets have it – the restaurants must also.

I ate a wonderful Cheeseburger at Ocean Grill, but found the drinks so so… I do have to give them there ups and high marks for the fans and atmosphere. The shade and breeze was a needed after the walk back on the Lind Trail.

We had a late night snack at La Tapa which was wonderful! Very nice wine selection and the small plate offerings were exactly what we were looking for.

Rhumb Lines lived up to their sign with a wonderful mixture of Caribbean and Pacific Rim selections. I think everyone enjoyed the evening and the surroundings. Noseeums enjoyed my feet that night also, but was a minor inconvenience.

To shake it up, we jumped on the ferry and went over to Red Hook for dinner and drinks one evening. Hit the regular spots for cocktails, but ate at Lotus. Not being a raw fish kinda of guy, I was really stepping out. They told us they served family style, which we learned later meant that the waitress brought it out whenever in no particular order. I ordered a Sea Bass dish that was that was to die for. Really Really Really Good, but I had to wait 90 minutes for it because I wanted it a little more than seared. Not sure I will ever return, but I cannot hit on the food because I was the one off the menu. The Raw Fish eaters seemed to enjoy it.

Last night dinner was back in Cruz Bay at Lime Inn. We had a great experience last year and this year was enjoyable. The whole snapper blackened was cooked to perfection. Another wonderful meal, which left not one square inch of room for a piece of Key Lime Pie.

Once again for no apparent reason we spent a little more time than we should on this corner

Me, I like the Quiet Mon, but for some strange reason I always find myself standing on the street with a drink (or three) before I can get up the stairs. Of course this makes no sense at all because I disdain sitting in a parking lot at Duffy’s. It must be the plastic animals in the drinks.

The Return:

No problems coming home except we had to come home…

Nice to know Facts we learned this trip:

If you do the Reef Bay Trail the NPS lets you park at the HQ Building – Go in and check in at the desk and ask for a parking pass.

Do not be afraid to ask you waiter, waitress, or bartender for a paper napkin soaked in Gin if the noseeums show up. I have heard some establishments prefer vodka. I have no opinion but the gin seemed to work. Only once in 10 days did they find me.

If you walk down heart attack hill make damn sure you do not go walk back up – Especially down and up twice!

It appeared to me (IMHO) that food has skyrocketed in the last year. This includes in the store or the restaurants.